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FYI SOUTH Magazine, August 2003. VOL.3 ISSUE 8

Lin's Traditional Taiwanese Restaurant 278 BoTung Rd., Chiayi City Tel: (05) 275-0339 No menu; usually open 5 pm-9 pm

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Lin's Traditional Taiwanese Restaurant

By Dan Bloom
Translated by Richard Lu

     Lin Ming-chang runs a Taiwanese restaurant in the heart of Chiayi City which has been featured in both NEXT magazine and the MinSheng Daily News, but still relatively few people know about it because there is no sign above the door. Even if there was a sign, it wouldn't have anything on it, because the restaurant has no name.

     It is not even a restaurant in the normal sense of things, although it does have a license and a street address, two small doors, a window or two, a WC, a well-stocked kitchen, and--most important of all--a chef who knows a thing or two about Taiwanese cuisine.

     Lin is a young-at-heart middle-aged man who runs the eatery with his mother, who doesn't look a day older than her son. Many diners assume she is Lin's wife.

     Everything served here is delicious, but especially popular are the stinky tofu, miso roast beef, "Hung-Sao" lamb, and high-mountain vegetables.

In addition to cooking up a storm in his small but cozy kitchen, and serving some tasty local dishes at moderate prices (there's no real menu, so diners must know what to order, or go with friends who know the routine), Lin's little wooden shop serves as a kind of museum.      He has assembled a collection of old railroad memorabilia, old advertising signs, and logos from Taiwan's yesteryear. There are old bottles, ice cream scoops, and other dining utensils from the 1930s, 1940s, and 1950s. Black and white photographs of old Taiwan bedeck the walls, as well as yellowing maps, framed newspapers, and record album covers from way back when.

    The round wooden tables can accommodate eight to 10 people; there are a few four-seat tables for smaller groups. Reservations are not required, but it's best to telephone before you go there to check the place will be open, as Mr. Lin and his mother follow their own schedule.