ByJohn Matthews & Steven Crook Translated by Annie Liu

KAOHSIUNG SECTION
The most popular myth surrounding the origins of the festival recalls the ancient story of a respected scholar and statesman, Qu Yuan, who drowned himself in a river after falling from favour in the Royal Courts. The local people who loved him, raced in boats to attempt a rescue. But in failure, threw rice into the river to please the river dragons. Not much has changed over the centuries since the popular folk activities began. Today, you'll find events on display in and around the Love River in Kaohsiung that commemorate the story of Qu Yuan.

Drums beat, hand-held foghorns blow and a myriad of colours can be seen racing across the water towards the floating finish. It's a tradition born more than two thousand years ago that draws participants from all over the world. Each year, thousands of spectators gather to watch the Dragon Boat races unfold on major waterways all over Taiwan. The annual Dragon Boat Festival is one of Taiwan's most important traditions. And, it is here where you'll experience a very unique spectacle of Chinese culture and heritage. From eating tzungtzu (a dish consisting of a mix of rice, meat, peanuts and egg yolk wrapped in bamboo leaves) and drinking body-cleansing realgar wine, all the folk traditions center around one very important activity - the Dragon Boat races.

The races are a clear example of the Chinese virtues of teamwork and cooperation. And Benjamin-John, the head coach of the Dragon Boat teams at Shu-Te Home Economics and Commercial High School, couldn't agree more. "It is the main action of the year and we (the team) are always very enthusiastic to join the traditional competitions". For nearly a quarter of a century, the High School has participated in the races in Kaohsiung and looks forward to more. "We want to keep the tradition strong at the school", says Benjamin-John. According to him, the commitment of being a team member is very demanding. "You need extra or more than the ordinary commitment to practice. Training begins at least four months before the festival, with the first month devoted to ordinary physical training, and then continues to develop strong rowing technique and teamwork."

The boats are unique and elaborate structures in themselves, often measuring up to seven meters in length and decorated in ornate colours and carvings. The sight of a dragon's head reaching proudly out of the bow of these boats and racing across the water is unforgettable. In a boat with more than a dozen people rowing in dedicated unison, teamwork is crucial. A team made up of mostly foreigners and headed by coach Linda Wu is equally eager to acknowledge the teamwork and the competition involved leading up to the Dragon Boat races. Her team trains four times per week for the better part of four months. "This is as much about people as it is a competition," Wu says. "The members of our team are all volunteers who want to experience Chinese tradition and personal growth. They are dedicated and enthusiastic."

On the day of the races, you will notice that an entire race may take no more than two minutes, but within that short span of time exists a level of fierce and dedicated cooperation. Not to mention the fierce competition. "The races are very exciting to watch" states Wu. "The atmosphere, the competition and seeing people get into it draw huge crowds. The entire Love River will be full of people watching".
Those who are not excited by the prospect of watching the participants lay it all on the line for the trophy will find that this event has lots more to offer. On the days of the Dragon Boat races the shores of the Love River are transformed into a bustling arts and crafts market. From traditional foods to second-hand books to hand-made clothing that rivals any found in a boutique, you are likely to see it being sold from behind makeshift stalls. And since there are many pubs and restaurants within a short walking distance, one can quickly slip away from the mania for a refreshment, without having to miss a race.

This year the Dragon Boat races in Kaohsiung will take place on the weekend of June 11 and 12. For most it will be too late to get in a boat and experience this adventurous tradition firsthand. But even if you have to stay on dry land, grab your camera, a tzungtzu and perhaps a glass of realgar wine and make your way down to the Love River (between the bridges at WuFu Road and JhongJheng Road). It is well worth the effort to brave the crowds to be a spectator at what is arguably Taiwan's most popular festival.
With references to history as told from the pages:
www.ep66.idv.tw/Dragon.htm
www.twhistory.org.tw/20010625.htm