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COMPASS MAGAZINE, September 2002.

Diversions:      

Where the eagles fly: Paragliding takes off in Taiwan By Douglas Habecker / Photos courtesy of Les Sharp

       What would you do if you found out that it was possible to be flying by yourself, in the clouds with the birds, within a month or two for relatively little expense? For those of us who have longingly gazed at that soaring hawk, or passing airplane, and dreamed about leaving the earth behind, the answer seems obvious: Sign me up!

Touted as the "purest form of flying available to humans", paragliding offers exactly that--a realistic chance for the average guy or gal, with the average amount of time and money, to get their head in the clouds, quite literally. In Taiwan, where the sport has seen its ups and downs over the past decade, this is still the case, thanks to a dedicated core of enthusiasts who can't get enough of flying.

       Those who have spent time near popular local paragliding sites, such as I-lan, Green Bay or Pingtung county's Saichia, may have watched paragliders doing their thing. Not to be confused with parasailing (getting pulled behind a boat like a kite), parachuting or hang gliding, paragliding can trace its lineage to parachutes. Paragliders sit in a harness that is suspended from a nylon or polyester wing, or canopy, which inflates to an air foil shape when air passes into it. This happens when pilots foot-launch themselves from a hill or are towed into the air, usually by a vehicle. Once in the air, pilots shift their weight and manipulate their brake lines to control their direction.

Another major advantage of paragliding is the cost and portability. An entire rig, packed into a backpack, weighs about 25 kilograms and, on the average, will cost about NT$100,000 when all is said and done. By comparison, hang gliding is up to five times more expensive and much less convenient.

       Flights last anywhere--depending on conditions and the pilot's skill level--from a three-minute glide down a hill to hours at altitudes up to 3,000-plus meters and distances of over 100 kilometers (the world record is 423 km). Conditions can vary between smooth sailing and unpredictable winds that demand a certain level of skill. While there is always a risk factor, the use of good instruction, safe well-maintained equipment and good sense keep the sport as safe as most other outdoor recreation.

Taichung-based Englishman Les Sharp is a long-time paragliding enthusiast and currently the only foreign-certified instructor on the island. He notes that the number of paragliders on the island has fallen from about 1,000 a decade ago to about 200 today, largely due to that unqualified instructors, the wrong equipment and other practices that have led to accidents and a loss of interest.

       According to Sharp, the aerosports in Taiwan were originally dominated by military and ex-military types, including one Green Bay regular enigmatically known as "The Colonel". In later years, the sport has seen an influx of unqualified personnel selling their services as instructors with as few as 35 flights under their belts. While there is a local pilot certfication system run under the ROC Aerospace Association, it is not associated with any international organization and, thus, is not recognized overseas. Furthermore, Saichia is the only island site that requires pilots to be licensed.

       "When I started to fly, I quickly realized that the guys I was working with weren't very professional. Some people found that out the hard way, through accidents," said Sharp, noting that Taiwan has lost a paraglider about once every two years--the same rate as countries with 30,000 or more active pilots.

Deciding that he loved the sport, the Taichung Englishman--who now also imports and distributes paragliding equipment--became a certified advanced pilot with the United States Hang Gliding Association and currently provides instruction for students from as far away as Hong Kong. Full pilot training can take anywhere from an intensive seven-to-10-day course to over a month, and includes eight hours of ground school, 12 lectures, five flying days and 25 flights with an instructor. Sharp charges NT$15,000 for certification to a novice level, with a NT$7,000 introductory course, while other local instructors average about NT$10,000 for a course.

       Although beginners usually can fly solo under close supervision within a day or two, Sharp says he doesn't usually sign off on a pilot until they've done 35 to 40 flights. Skills include flight planning, equipment maintenance, landing and launching competently and airmanship. As pilots progress to intermediate and advanced stages, they can enjoy aerobatics, cross-country flights, tandem flying, competitions, or simply socializing within the close-knit flying community.

       "The best pilot is the the guy who lands with the biggest smile on his face. You don't have to be a top gun," said Sharp, who enjoys reminiscing about great paragliding experiences.

       "There are some things that just stick in your head, like flying in and out of the clouds with one of your best friends at 7:30 in the morning. Or flying with the hawks, kites and raptors. They're quite friendly and they'll fly with you. Sharing a thermal with a hawk--that's pretty cool."

       (For more information about paragliding in Taiwan, contact Les Sharp at 0928-315-215.)