Perhaps you're a proud member
of a local Lion's Club, or a Rotarian. Maybe
you've joined one of the city's exclusive
business or hotel clubs. But what about a
global society of gastronomes that dates back
over 550 years to a medieval French guild
of spit-roasters?
In recent years, Taiwan has
seen a steady increase of truly enlightened,
discerning connoisseurs of very fine dining.
A number of factors are responsible for this
change, including internationalization and
affluence, frequent overseas travel by local
residents and, most significantly, a dynamic
influx of international five-star dining establishments
and chefs.
With such a conducive environment, it's not
altogether surprising that Taiwan has its
own delegation, or "Bailliage",
for the Chaine des Rotisseurs. This French-based
organization has a fascinating history that
dates back to 1248, when St. Louis, King of
France, organized the Guild of Spit-Roasters,
given the special privilege of roasting geese.
It later received royal patronage and its
own coat of arms, but was dissolved with other
guilds after the French Revolution. It wasn't
unitl 1950 that three French gastronomes resurrected
the organization with the goal of reviving
the old guild's spirit "to the professionals
in association with non-professional gastronomes
and housewives alike".

The Taiwan "bailliage",
founded in 1977, currently has 60 members
consisting of culinary connoisseurs from all
walks of life but leaning more towards food
and beverage industry professionals who make
up 35 to 40 percent of the total and include
five-star hotel GMs, chefs, restaurant owners
and the like. Currently, there is roughly
a 50-50 mix of foreigners to Taiwanese. The
group convenes about once every two months
to savor dinners that truly can be considered
the pinnacle of all-around fine dining experiences
in Taiwan. These are hosted by Taipei's finest
hotels and restaurants, whose chefs and managers
vie shamelessly to outdo each other.
If you're a first-time guest,
like I was, the regalia alone can be intimidating.
The members, clad in tuxedos and formalwear,
have their royal-looking green, blue and purple
bows and medallions around their necks. Induction
into the group resembles a knighting, complete
with a sword tap to the shoulder. Nevertheless,
the environment is friendly, relaxed and welcoming.
To put it mildly, the dinners are amazing.
My evening happened to be "Godfather's
Sicilian Night" at The Sherwood Taipei
(NT$4,000 for members). Waiters, dressed to
resemble 1920s mobsters, served an eight-course
dinner, with a main course of Roasted Lamb
Tenderloin in Crust of Sea Salt from Trapani
and Marsala Wine Sauce, accompanied by three
fine wines. In an evening highlight, the wines
were introduced by International Wine Academy
of Roma Director Ian Domenico D'Agata, via
a live TV connection to Rome. The previous
gathering, "Delights in a Summer Garden",
saw the Grand Hyatt Taipei transform their
ballroom into an exquisite outdoor garden,
complete with real grass.

"Our purpose is to enjoy
good food with good wines in a nice atmosphere
with colleagues, and do this around the world",
says current Bailli Delegue de Taiwan Paul
Wyss, modestly describing his club's sumptuous
gatherings.
As Wyss stresses, Chaine des Rotisseurs is
open to anyone that shares these interests.
He adds that becoming a member actually makes
one part of a global 25,000-member organization
that spans 80 countries, where one can enjoy
the same privileges and gatherings. In addition
to Taiwan, Wyss himself has been involved
with delegations in Hong Kong and South Korea.
For those interested in joining the Taiwan
delegation, there is a one-time membership
fee of NT$10,000, with additional NT$6,000
annual fees.
For more information about
Chaine des Rotisseurs, refer to their website
at www.chaine-des-rotisseurs-taiwan.idv.tw
or e-mail bailli@chaine-des-rotisseurs-taiwan.idv.tw |