By Mark payne Translated by Patty Liu

For some, it's the only thing that can get them through the day. For others, it's the perfect antidote to a hectic day, offering a chance to sit, relax and get away from it all. Whether it's a milky Latte, an indulgent Cappuccino, a smooth Mocha, or a barnstorming Espresso that tickles your fancy, Taipei is a great city in which to enjoy a great cup of coffee.

Over the past five years, the coffee-drinking scene here has exploded. Coffee is now a NT$10-billion-a-year market; coffee shops can be found on almost every street corner. Taipei's coffee establishments are full of businesspeople conducting meetings, friends chatting and catching up on the latest gossip, people beavering away on their notebooks, and even love-struck couples on dates.

There can be no doubt that the chief reason for this dramatic increase in coffee consumption and coffee culture is the arrival of chain cafes such as Starbucks, IS Coffee, Barista, and Dante. The Taiwan Coffee Association has published statistics showing that coffee consumption is growing at 120 percent per year, while there are roughly 10,000 coffeeshops and cafes islandwide.

Eddie Liu, head of local chain Barista Coffee, is optimistic that this trend will continue: He estimates that the split between tea and coffee drinkers in Taiwan is currently 70/30 in favour of the traditional favorite, tea. "In 10 years time, I hope that this gap will shrink. We may even achieve a 50/50 split," he says.

Although demand for coffee is rapidly increasing, the success of the large chains is not purely down to coffee. The environment they offer is also key. We all know that living in Taipei can be hectic; we work hard, life moves fast. But, on entering any one of these shiny, modern comfort zones, we enter a sanctuary--a sanctuary where we set the pace. We can drink our coffee and simply do nothing. We can engage in conversation with our friends. We can read the newspaper on a lazy Sunday morning. Or we can crank it up by taking part in a high-level business meeting, or switch on our computers and get that report done for the boss.

One of the major preconceptions about the chains is that "they are all the same." While the atmosphere they offer could be considered broadly similar, there are differences, mainly in the coffee on offer. Chains such as Dante, Ikari, and Doutor are well known for their NT$35 cups of coffee. The coffee is of a reasonable standard, but obviously the quality of the beans used will be lower than that used by some of the more expensive stores. Manabe and Barista, for example, offer the coffee drinker more comfortable premises and a wider range of quality coffees (around NT$100 per cup).

Of course, Starbucks and IS Coffee try not to place themselves in a box--they take a more universal approach, targeting everyone with a more standardized product and experience. You take your pick; you drink your coffee.

Of course, Taiwan's coffee shop scene is made up of more than chains. There are thousands of independent cafes and coffee vendors operating all over the country. Taipei has many, ranging from the beautifully artistic surroundings of The Beautiful Tree Cafe near Tonghua Street night market (around NT$110 per cup) to the coffee vans, such as Sky (around NT$90 a cup), which operate around Yangmingshan National Park. These operations can offer something different in terms of the coffee offered and the environment in which it is served. And, while chains and brand names traditionally do well in Taiwan, there is also a chunk of the market averse to such places. Readers in this group should take a look at this magazine's directory and website (http://www.taiwanfun.com).

With the growth of the chains, many independent coffee shops are finding life tough. The trick for many is to offer something unique to the consumer. One coffeeshop we found, Old Neighbour (74, Lane 103, NeiHu Rd., Sec.2), does just this. An elegant and airy establishment, tastefully decorated by the owner, Chuang Wen-je, this place offers a fantastic range of coffees from around the world--Costa Rica, Guatemala, Brazil, Columbia, Jamaica, Cuba, Kenya, and Ethiopia to name a few.
Mr. Chuang also imports and roasts all the beans himself ensuring total freshness. Old Neighbour has been around some 10 years, three of those in its present location. Mr. Chuang is passionate about coffee, so much so that he does not contemplate offering food in the establishment. "I just want people to enjoy the coffee," he states. "This is a place for real coffee lovers."

Prices range between NT$120-250 per cup, although we purchased half a pound of superb Ethiopian coffee for NT$300. Although the coffee shop itself seemed relatively quiet, Mr.Chuang seemed to like it like that. His main business is selling coffee to aficionados around Taipei and beyond. And, when asked about the threat of the chains he simply shook his head, "It's a totally different market. We are purely focused on coffee."

Even with the horizon seemingly dominated by the chains, Taipei's coffee culture is a diverse one. There are differences betweens the chains themselves, while the vast range of independent operators add to the wealth of choice for the Taipei coffee-drinker. With the market ever expanding, with competition ever fiercer, and with an increasingly sophisticated and educated consumer, the future looks bright for the coffee-drinkers of Taipei. Now, it's about time for that coffee break!