All-American cross-country cuisine from fM 185, BoGuan Road moved to: 1, ShiZheng N 1st Rd, 2F (Le Free mall) (04) 2251-4500 Hours:6-10:30 pm (open to 12 midnight Fri/Sat); 12-4 pm Sunday brunch Credit cards accepted. No service charge.

-- By Douglas Habecker Translated by Jean Huang

Ask anyone in Taiwan what "American cuisine" is and the answers will probably be very similar: hamburgers, hotdogs, pizza. Mike Armstrong, the amiable owner of fM, has made it his goal to change all that.

"I got tired of everyone thining that American food was hamburgers and 'bar food'. [Americans] do great lamb, steaks, seafood, pasta, salads and other dishes. These are all American, but a hybrid of everything, found in big cities and small towns across America," he said, praising the creativity of his country's cuisine.

Aiming the break the negative impact of what he calls American "corporate food" generated by popular U.S. fast-food and restaurant chains, Mike has introduced an extensive, creative menu that takes diners on a culinary tour across the United States, from east to west. All categories--appetizers, salads, entrees, pastas and sandwiches--are divided into dishes from the three states that MIke has lived and worked in: Maryland, Wyoming and Hawaii.

Joining Mike's dining road trip across the States, I found myself delighted at every single stop, starting with the NT$190 Spinach Dip (Maryland). Savoring the big bowl of the warm, baked dip, made with sauteed spinach, seafood, mushrooms and three cheeses, almost made my corn tortilla chips an afterthought. Another amazing starter is the Lahaina Salad (Hawaii), which just oozes healthiness with a tropical combination of fresh veggies, fruit, berries, nuts and blue cheese.

Pasta lovers looking to escape the usual heavy, cream-based sauces for lighter, healthier fare should try the NT$250 Seafood Scampi (Maryland), a tasty pile of pasta covered with broccoli, shrimp and crab sauteed with a light lemon butter sauce. However, if you're a hungry carnivore, it's hard to beat the NT$390 Grilled Lamb Chops (Wyoming). There's plenty of tasty, chewy meat, perfect dipped in a mint sauce and served with some great mashed potatoes. Another must-try I have to recommend is the NT$220 Cordon Blue Sandwich (Maryland), sinfully rich with big chunks of tender chicken, blue cheese, ham and a blue cheese cream sauce.

There are many other dishes to sample--from Shepherd's Pie or Thai Spring Rolls to the Polynesian Chicken and Bacon Wrap--plus fM's popular Sunday afternoon brunch. Mike, in business for four years now, says it's all part of reminding people that fM's restaurant side is every bit as important as its famous bar.

"I haven't lost my commitment to food," says the owner. "I want people to be excited when they walk into an American restaurant."

(For more information about fM's monthly parties, wine tastings and other events, check the Nightlife "What's On" listings.)