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COMPASS MAGAZINE, December 2005

A fusion of art and good taste at J-Ping

 

4, Lane 122, ZhongXing Street
(04) 2302-3580
Hours:6:30 pm-10:30 pm
A few parking spaces available. Phone reservations requested.

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By Uvia Chang Translated by Cara Steenstra

Situated on a secluded lane in an unmarked building that looks like a warehouse, where even the entrance is hard to find, is J-Ping Cafe, a secret Taichung haven for delicious Italian cuisine. This peculiar building is the work of internationally-renowned architect Lin You Han. Inside, a courtyard gives the illusion of being outdoors and the walls give the space an irregular, multi-shaped design and divide seating areas. The shelves are filled with gourmet cookbooks that reflect chef Mr. Wang's passion for food, also illustrated by the fact that he travels to Italy each year to learn new recipes.

Meals here are available as set menus, with seven main-course choices. Prices of set meals range from NT$780 (Kettle-Pan Fried Chicken Leg with Herbs) to NT$1,980 (Grilled Live Lobster with Red Pepper Sauce). Each set meal includes Antipasti (appetizer), Primi (first course), Secondi (main course) and Dolci (dessert). First comes the bread that is crispy on the outside and soft on the inside--not easy to make, with a high water content gives it its chewy texture.

Elegant Miss Lin graciously introduced their menu offerings, starting with the Oven-Roasted Porcini, with Real Porcini Juice Reduction, and the Pear and Rocket Salad with Parmigiano Reggiano. With the latter, a deliciously marinated stewed pear is paired with bittersweet rocket and finely-sliced Parmigiano Reggiano. The resulting "melt-in-your-mouth" sensation is perfection embodied in an appetizer. For a first course, try the Radicchio and Gorgonzola Risotto, using Italian rice that is visibly larger than most. It is soaked in a soup base, then cooked when the rice has fully absorbed the soup, for a creamy flavor and chewy texture.

You can also choose the Chick-Pea Soup with Porcini Mushroom, rich with ingredients. Then comes the main course of Roasted Organic Pork Chop with Mustard Fruits and Caponata (NT$980). Carefully selected organically-raised pigs are carefully fed for 120 days. Each pig has its own identification certificate and the meat is free from antibiotics and odor, so that you can eat with peace of mind. The roasting locks in the savory meat juices, while the texture is unforgettably good. Dessert choices also reflect the taste and quality of this restaurant and include Tiramisu, Sicilian Bombe with Candied Fruits and Nuts, or Bittersweet Chocolate Salami with Clement Jam.

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