This month, I would like to clarify the definitions of some wine-related professions, and try to explain the difference between a real wine expert and someone who passes himself off as an expert.

The wine industry has two main professions--the winemaker and sommelier. A winemaker is a professional who has achieved the title of "Doctor" after a long period of university study. Italy is the most important wine producer in the world, cultivating grapes across a wide territory. Wine is part of Italy's history, culture and economy, and study toward an Oenology degree starts as early as high school. Beginning with agrarian, chemical and organic subjects, the study of winemaking follows the process from soil to grapes to packaging, providing a comprehensive understanding of wine. My own training, for example, included six years of agrarian high school and then another five years at University of Florence for a doctorate in Oenology and Viticulture.

The winemaker selects grapes and chooses the right time to collect them for processing. He follows the vinification process, from primary processing to refinement through chemical, biological and organoleptic analyses, finally bottling and accompanying the wine to market in order to provide technical knowledge to the purchaser. Thus, the winemaker is the consumer's most reliable expert.

On the other hand, a sommelier is a person trained by an academic program structured in three levels: 1) viticulture, oenology, and wine tasting; 2) Italian and foreign production of wine; 3) pairing wine with food. This three-year study aims to combine a general knowledge of grapes and wine with a particular refinement of the palate, with the primary goal being the provision of advice on culinary wine pairings.

Despite these professions, wine advice is still subjective. For example, an expert taster, winemaker or sommelier from an area close to the sea can better perceive the aromas of this territory, whereas another from the mountains might emphasize the myriad flavors of fruit and forestry. However, there is always a benefit to tasting wines introduced by a qualified technical expert--like a true winemaker--who is able to explain the differences.

Enjoy a pleasant July, filled with good wines!

Valerio Franchi