Experiencing Taichung's Japanese side

Words by Alice Chang
Translated by S. Ying & Eva Liao

During Taiwan's Japanese colonial era, Taichung's municipal plan was modeled on the city of Kyoto. Its streets were laid out in a checkerboard pattern with waterways and bodies of water surrounded by green park spaces, earning it the nickname of "Little Kyoto" back then. Despite the passage of many years, you can still observe many vintage and modern traces of Japanese culture in Taichung today.

This includes numerous fun Japanese-related destinations and good eats in the city. Japan is world-renowned for its animation and characters created by master Miyazaki Hayao have been translated into various languages and are adored by countless fans. A few years ago, a large number of Taichung office workers created scenes from the popular animated feature "One Piece" on the walls around their homes, making this lane famous overnight. A Dali district interior design company also used recycled materials to create Iron Man and a large three-dimensional Totoro (from Miyazaki Hayao's famed "My Neighbor Totoro").

Besides such Japanese-inspired illustrations and recreations, many locals have embraced "Cosplay" (a term originated in 1978 by Comic Market founder Yoshihiro Yonezawa, who wrote about "costume play" to showcase animated characters and various artistic behaviors). Cosplay characters are mainly inspired by animation, comics, video games, light novels, movies, television drama series, pop idols, occupations and famous real-life people. The object of Cosplay is to wear costumes with special gadgets, makeup and body language to imitate those portrayed characters. Taichung periodically hosts Cosplay gatherings and markets and, on July 4 at Taichung Stock 20 Art Gallery-Stock 21, there will be an informal meeting for those interested in Cosplay.

Japanese food is hugely popular in Taiwan. To buy Japanese edibles, visit Yumaowu Capita'n Supermarket, where you will find tons of fresh and frozen seafood, breads baked in stone ovens with traditional Japanese bread ingredients, and a wide range of cooked/uncooked food, fruit and vegetables, snack crackers, instant noodles and much more, with over 70 percent of products here being from Japan.

Hidden in a big house, another interesting store is Ji Siang Shang Hao, where all the candy, gum, instant noodles and cookies are imported from Japan, and the appealing, vividly-colored, delicate packaging keeps bringing customers back for more purchases.

The Daiso chain store sells very reasonably-priced products, starting from NT$39-49, in an amazing array. Options include beauty care, home decor, kitchen supplies, gardening, toys, stationery, tools, car gadgets, pet merchandise, storage supplies and even food. Regardless of gender and age, almost anyone can find something that interests them during extended browsing sessions, which reminds shoppers why Japanese products have captured the hearts of so many consumers.

The Japanese tea ceremony is an art form and treating guests to such ceremonies was a tradition transmitted from China during the Chinese Tang and Song dynasties. The many Japanese sent to China to study during that period brought the art of Chinese tea back to Japan and this evolved into the Japanese tea ceremony as we know it today. This ceremony takes place in a private tea room and after guests are seated the host will begin. Traditionally, the process follows a specific sequence and order as guests are served in an art form that embodies the cultural value of refining one's self and displays a spirit of social etiquette.

One can get a taste of authentic Japanese tea in Taichung by visiting Akemori uzi Mocha Coffee & Handmade Snacks on CunZhong Street. Teas found here are not limited to Japanese green tea or matcha green powder as this shop specializes in importing top teas under the Akemori uzi brand. The taste of fine tea, sweet aroma of tea leaves, bitterness of matcha green tea powder, and unique health benefits of tea's beta carotene and antioxidant properties all encourage healthy tea-drinking habits. If you wish to learn more about the traditional tea ceremony, there are classes available at Yue Ming Cang Hai Tea Center.

The Martial Arts Compound of the Taichung Criminal Law Enforcement Office was built back in 1937 and was also used by colonial-era police and law enforcement officers to practice judo and kendo. This Japanese structure became a protected heritage site in 2004 and, following reconstruction, has become a popular photography location with its renewed spirit of bright spaciousness, filled with light and an air of elegance. In 2011, the official operation of this building was awarded to Six Arts Association and it became the location for cultural research, martial arts classes, theater productions, art studios, a kendo center, and even chess associations. A series of activities are held held with the aim of research and art promotion and it is being renamed The Natural Way Six Arts Cultural Center.

It is important to note that you can experience a free kendo lesson here if you phone in a week in advance. Warriors developed kendo in preparation for battle and it embodies an Asian philosophy of being still during times of change, of being soft when surroundings are tough, and being one with your body movements in the flow of "qi" and use of sword. Kendo emphasizes a mental strength through which you can train yourself to stay calm without panicking when responding to crisis, and this spot offers a great way to experience that if you're fascinated by Chinese or Japanese cultures.

National musical instruments from Okinawa are gradually receiving attention in Taichung. Shamisen master in Taiwan, Takehiro Kenyu, opened "Umijimanerio" in Taichung and mainly promotes and teaches the Okinawan shamisen while hosting musical performances showcasing the strong Okinawan culture. Some small-scale store performances are organized from time to time at the shop, allowing you to sense and experience the warmth of Okinawa's people and sea breezes as you enjoy the live music.

Taichung Comics Painting Alley
Lane 100, LinSen Rd, West Dist (scooter garage by alley entrance)

Taichung Dali Chinchilla Totoro
Next to 113, QiaoCheng Rd, Dali Dist (near DaZhi Rd)

2015/7/4Cosplay Field
Taichung Stock 20 Art Gallery-Stock 21
6-1, Lane 37, FuXing Rd, Sec 4, South Dist

Yumaowu Capita'n Supermarket
(04) 2321-6360
150, GongYi Rd, West Dist
Hours: 10 am-9 pm
(04) 2245-3238
370, ChongDe Rd, Sec 2, Beitun Dist
Hours: 10 am-10 pm

Ji Siang Shang Hao
(04) 2226-4012
8, Lane 291, ZhongZheng Rd, Central Dist
Hours: 9:30 am-9:30 pm

DAISO
http://www.daiso.com.tw/retail.php

Akemori uzi Mocha Coffee & Handmade Snacks
(04) 2375-6262
1, Lane 161, CunZhong St, West Dist
Hours: 11 am-10 pm

Natural Way Six Arts Cultural Center (Martial Arts Compound of the Taichung Criminal Law Enforcement Office )
(04) 2375-9366
33, LinSen Rd, West Dist
Xin Xing Hall hours：Mon 9 am-5 pm，Tue-Sun 9 am-10 pm
Chuan Xi Hall hours：Tue-Sun 9 am-5 pm (closed 12-1 pm)

Yue Ming Cang Hai Tea Center
22, ShiZheng S 1st Rd, Xitun Dist
(04) 2255-0363 Ms. Liao Yue Mei

Umijimanerio
0919-339-201
204, GuiHe St, West Dist