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COMPASS MAGAZINE,November 2004.

 


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Gaining a deeper appreciation of coffee

By Douglas Habecker Translated by Blankie Hsu


ICoffee as we enjoy it today dates back as far as 1000 A.D. when Africans in the Ethiopia region learned that boiling coffee beans created a good cup of joe. However, the drinking of coffee conconctions goes back 400 years before that time, with the simple formula of coffee beans + water + some sunshine used to create a crude brew of sorts.


Thankfully, humanity has come a long ways in deepening the art of coffee enjoyment since then. Today, true connoisseurs will testify that gaining a deeper appreciation for coffee is every bit as demanding as that required for fine wines. While most drinkers are content to sip on their Americanos and cappuccinos in blissful ignorance, a little extra knowledge may help deepen one's interest and enjoyment.


Take, for example, the astonishing fact that more so-called "Blue Mountain" coffee is sold in Taiwan than is produced in the entire world. According to Taichung-based coffee grower and importer Bill McCullough, legitimate Blue Mountain beans are only grown on one Alishan-sized mountain in Jamaica. He adds that most Taiwanese coffee labeled with this renowned name is simply Columbian beans mixed with ordinary Robusta beans. McCullough, general manager of organic gourmet coffee company Cenam International, has two of his own plantations in Nicaragua and has been doing business locally since 1987, selling his beans to a variety of reputable outlets.


As McCullough and other experts note, 99.99 percent of all coffee beans fall into three main categories: a) Arabica, which grows between 900 and 2,000 meters at a stable temperature; b) Robusta, which survives anywhere but typically between sea level and 900 meters; c) Liberica, a Robusta hybrid designed for lower altitudes. About 70 percent of the world's product is Arabica or a derivative, largely because Brazil is the number-one producer, with Vietnam's Robusta-dominated industry giving it second place. At a glance, how do you tell the difference? The center crease on an Arabica bean is wavy and straight on a Robusta bean.


The best coffee beans, typically Arabica, are grown within the tropics at higher altitudes, where the year-round, 24-hour temperatures stay between 17 and 24 degrees. These include Kenya AA (grown on the slopes of Mt. Kilimanjaro), Columbian Supreme, and Ethiopian Yiriggichiefe. However, many lower-grade, cheaper Robusta coffee beans are grown in hotter regions, such as Vietnam and Indonesia. These beans tend to have harsher flavors because they grow very fast are are much higher in caffeine.


Within the three main categories, there are about 150 specific coffee tree types, selected for flavors, yield and altitudes. Other factors, including harvesting techniques, can also make a difference. When asked about some top beans, McCullough lists of a sampling that includes Bourbon (yellow, not red in color), Typica (small red beans found in Ethiopia), Maragogype (a number-one hybrid bean), and other names like Pacamara, Caturra and Catuai. If these names are alien to most drinkers, it's because most coffees are simply identified by their points of origin, like a "Santos Rio", "Antigua" or "Bahaia".


For reasons of cost, the blending of different grades of beans is commonly used to create a variety of unique flavors. Yet other influences include how the brew is prepared and roasting (the darker the roast, the less caffeine). The range goes from typical American coffee--described as "dishwater" by McCullough--to paste-thick, boiled, finely-ground Turkish coffee which, he says, will keep drinkers awake for days.


In the end, coffees are judged by their acidity, aftertaste, aroma and body or density. Personal tastes among experts no doubt vary but, in McCullough's opinion, a good coffee should have medium acidity, a little bite that is not overpowering, and an aftertaste that makes you want to come back for more. There should also be the same quality from the first hot sip to the last cold drop. That certainly sounds like something that every coffee drinker can raise a mug in agreement to.