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Gaining a deeper appreciation of coffee
By Douglas Habecker Translated by Blankie Hsu
ICoffee as we enjoy
it today dates back as far as 1000 A.D. when Africans
in the Ethiopia region learned that boiling coffee
beans created a good cup of joe. However, the
drinking of coffee conconctions goes back 400
years before that time, with the simple formula
of coffee beans + water + some sunshine used to
create a crude brew of sorts.
Thankfully, humanity has come a long ways in deepening
the art of coffee enjoyment since then. Today,
true connoisseurs will testify that gaining a
deeper appreciation for coffee is every bit as
demanding as that required for fine wines. While
most drinkers are content to sip on their Americanos
and cappuccinos in blissful ignorance, a little
extra knowledge may help deepen one's interest
and enjoyment.
Take, for example, the astonishing fact that more
so-called "Blue Mountain" coffee is
sold in Taiwan than is produced in the entire
world. According to Taichung-based coffee grower
and importer Bill McCullough, legitimate Blue
Mountain beans are only grown on one Alishan-sized
mountain in Jamaica. He adds that most Taiwanese
coffee labeled with this renowned name is simply
Columbian beans mixed with ordinary Robusta beans.
McCullough, general manager of organic gourmet
coffee company Cenam International, has two of
his own plantations in Nicaragua and has been
doing business locally since 1987, selling his
beans to a variety of reputable outlets.
As McCullough and other experts note, 99.99 percent
of all coffee beans fall into three main categories:
a) Arabica, which grows between 900 and 2,000
meters at a stable temperature; b) Robusta, which
survives anywhere but typically between sea level
and 900 meters; c) Liberica, a Robusta hybrid
designed for lower altitudes. About 70 percent
of the world's product is Arabica or a derivative,
largely because Brazil is the number-one producer,
with Vietnam's Robusta-dominated industry giving
it second place. At a glance, how do you tell
the difference? The center crease on an Arabica
bean is wavy and straight on a Robusta bean.
The best coffee beans, typically Arabica, are
grown within the tropics at higher altitudes,
where the year-round, 24-hour temperatures stay
between 17 and 24 degrees. These include Kenya
AA (grown on the slopes of Mt. Kilimanjaro), Columbian
Supreme, and Ethiopian Yiriggichiefe. However,
many lower-grade, cheaper Robusta coffee beans
are grown in hotter regions, such as Vietnam and
Indonesia. These beans tend to have harsher flavors
because they grow very fast are are much higher
in caffeine.
Within the three main categories, there are about
150 specific coffee tree types, selected for flavors,
yield and altitudes. Other factors, including
harvesting techniques, can also make a difference.
When asked about some top beans, McCullough lists
of a sampling that includes Bourbon (yellow, not
red in color), Typica (small red beans found in
Ethiopia), Maragogype (a number-one hybrid bean),
and other names like Pacamara, Caturra and Catuai.
If these names are alien to most drinkers, it's
because most coffees are simply identified by
their points of origin, like a "Santos Rio",
"Antigua" or "Bahaia".
For reasons of cost, the blending of different
grades of beans is commonly used to create a variety
of unique flavors. Yet other influences include
how the brew is prepared and roasting (the darker
the roast, the less caffeine). The range goes
from typical American coffee--described as "dishwater"
by McCullough--to paste-thick, boiled, finely-ground
Turkish coffee which, he says, will keep drinkers
awake for days.
In the end, coffees are judged by their acidity,
aftertaste, aroma and body or density. Personal
tastes among experts no doubt vary but, in McCullough's
opinion, a good coffee should have medium acidity,
a little bite that is not overpowering, and an
aftertaste that makes you want to come back for
more. There should also be the same quality from
the first hot sip to the last cold drop. That
certainly sounds like something that every coffee
drinker can raise a mug in agreement to.
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