Welcome
to Kaohsiung Harbour: A Maritime Capital
By John Matthews Translated
by Annie Liu
Photos by John Matthews
One of the top five container ports
in the world, with over 1,500 registered fishing boats,
118 piers, an underground tunnel, ferries, a tiny offshore
island and numerous waterfront parks.
Kaohsiung's harbour is an extraordinary
focal point if you're in the city for a few days or
more. If you enjoy sipping coffee within reach of the
port, cruising around in a tour boat, taking a stroll
on wooden boardwalks, or simply taking a ferry to nearby
CiJin Island, then look no further. This harbour is
well on its way to having more to boast about than just
its sheer size and handling capacity.
Some say that Kaohsiung City's harbour
is a manifestation of industry and commerce. While that
may be true, it is the local people and culture that
truly contribute in so many ways. There is evidence
of this almost anywhere you look, from the inner harbour
to its outer reaches. Several different foreign cultures
have had an influence on the port's development one
way or another, but perhaps none as significant as that
coming from the Japanese Empire in earlier days. While
the big ships come in and out of the harbour from around
the globe to discharge their burdens portside, nearby
harbour-side activities abound.
Pick up a F.Y.I. SOUTH or Kaohsiung
City tourism map and you will see that the harbour and
nearby CiJin Island run almost north to south. There
are two entrances to the harbour roughly 12 kilometres
apart, while the total water area of the harbour itself
is 12.7 square kilometers. Starting from the ferry pier
on the corner of BinHai 1st and 2nd roads in old GuShan
district, following a circular route counter-clockwise
around the harbour is possible-allow yourself a full
day.
The ferry runs from 6 in the morning
to about midnight every day. It is strictly a pedestrian
and motorbike (and wheelchair) accessible ferry; don't
expect to be able to drive your car onboard. The price
is NT$10 per person and the same for your motorbike.
If you have a passenger on your motorbike, expect to
pay NT$30 for the lot of you. As the ferry leaves its
berth and passes the Cape Cafe (a popular place to enjoy
a harbour-side coffee), a good view is offered from
the second floor. Onboard is an excellent opportunity
to take in the size and beauty of the port as you cross
on your way to CiJin Island.
Once on CiJin Island, you can walk,
ride or Pedicab (rickshaw) your way to sites such as
the Tienhou Temple, Oceanside Park, the Cihou Lighthouse
and Fort. Tungshan Lane in front of the Tienhou Temple
is the oldest street in Kaohsiung and a reminder of
how old this community is. The Temple is a significant
historical site, having been there to protect fisherman
for more than 300 years. Further along the beach is
Oceanside Park, where windmills stand as sentinels to
passing ships and provide enough electricity to power
the lights in the entire park. A memorial nearby stands
to remember the 350 US soldiers killed inside the harbour
in January, 1945 onboard one of the Japanese prison
"hell"ships.
Before you leave the island by tunnel,
try and enjoy some of the freshest seafood in the city.
The Cross-Harbour Tunnel opened in May, 1984 and took
three years to build. It is 1.5 kilometers in length,
the only one of its kind in Taiwan, and sits between
Chien Chen Fishery Harbour and Terminal 3. On your way
back to the downtown area of the harbour, don't miss
the hustle and bustle happening on an average day at
the Chien Chen deep-sea fishing port. The busiest one
of its kind in Taiwan, this building resembles a large
ship. It has six floors, a seafood restaurant and a
cafe with harbour views as well.
At the pier off of SinGuang Road is
an interesting new park development offering relaxation
or a stroll through some unusual art work and a boardwalk
that extends around a fountain, grassy areas and bridges.
This pier is a surprising futuristic-looking landmark.
The Pier 2 Art District is next and sits not far from
harbour side in the Yen Cheng district. Ask any local
and they are sure to give directions regarding the whereabouts
of this place. The main building was once a warehouse
of Taiwan Sugar Company and is now an art space with
creative workshops, classrooms, a market and a moonlit
theatre.
Not faraway is the new Harbour 12 connected, via a railroad
bridge converted to a footbridge, to Harbour 13 (once
used strictly for military purposes). The complete renovation
and restoration of both harbours are recent projects
by the city government and are spaces to be enjoyed
thoroughly by all. This is a vital staging area as both
are situated at the mouth of the Love River. Don't miss
the Lantern Festival and other festivals at Harbour
13.
Harbour 12 is distinguished by a monument
built to represent the unity of city and port (two giant
sail-like structures). During the summer months watch
out for a busy sailing schedule for the tour boats that
leave the Harbour 12. Leaving on the hour between 2
p.m. and 8 p.m. (not available on Mondays), this is
a leisurely tour of sites around the water and can be
combined to include a bus tour. Phone the True Love
Port at (07) 521-2463 for more details.
If we attribute the emergence of Kaohsiung as a thriving
metropolis to its harbour and river, than we can obviously
look forward to more future plans of the city government
and harbour bureau. The renovation of several waterfront
locations and the continued efforts to preserve and
beautify old wharfs, parks and green spaces both offer
an opportunity for an environmental rebirth and tourist
boom. And it is easy to look ahead and forward to greener
pastures.
* Please check the Internet for this
and any additional information, news, views and maps
from the bilingual (Mandarin and English) websites,
or call (07) 281-1513.
For the Kaohsiung Harbour Bureau go to www.khb.gov.tw
For the Kaohsiung City Government go to www.kcg.com.tw
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