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FYI SOUTH Magazine, November 2002. VOL.2 ISSUE 11

Diversions:

Bare Bones Exploring Taiwan's Indigenous Past at the National Museum of Prehistory, Taitung by Karen Schmitt / translated by Katy Huang

       The National Museum of Pre-History, resting in the foothills of the Eastern Mountain range, makes a great destination if you're seriously interested in Taiwan's aboriginal past. The Museum, the first of it's kind in Taiwan, opened in July 2001 and in concert with the archaeological site of Peinan nearby.

       So far, thirteen excavations have been made at Peinan (dated to 3,000-500b.c.) that uncover more than 2,000 graves and storage areas and that point to a well-organized stone age settlement. Remnants include megaliths, coffins, pottery vessels, stone utensils and carved jade ornaments - the most remarkable are joined human-like figures sharing elaborate animal headdress. Similar examples have turned up throughout Taiwan suggesting group contact and/or some connection to head hunting rituals on account of the exaggerated headgear.

Items from the Peinan site are on exhibit in the Museum where there is a total of 14 exhibition rooms grouped by theme: Austronesian peoples of Taiwan, the island's natural history, and pre-historic cultures. The objective is to establish formative links within the Pan Pacific region and to introduce Taiwan's aboriginal cultures. Gallery information is available in English, and a gift shop, snack bar and well-manicured grounds complete the Museum picture.

       Special exhibits are routinely staged. "The Photo Can Talk: Stories of Taiwan's Indigenous People", which continues until November 17th, showcases photographs made by Torii Ryuzo (1896-1900), Ma Teng-yueh (1992-1999) and Sakulju, Paiwan sculptor from Sanhe Village, Ping Tung County. The display conveys specific sentiments: nostalgic photos made by early Japanese researchers, endearing portraits of Atayal elders documenting facial tattoos and an "insider's" look at aboriginal life in a contemporary context.

       Getting to the Museum is half the fun! Express trains run routinely from Kaohsiung (with stops at Ping Tung Station) making this a trip you can easily do in a day. A one-way ticket costs approximately NT$350; it's recommended to book return seats once arriving at Taitung Station. The route passes over and through the mountains, and skirts the straits and the Pacific Ocean. Negotiate for cab fare to the Museum (between NT$200-NT$300). If you prefer to stay overnight, try Taitung's newest five-star, Naruwan Hotel (for reservations call 089-239666; www.naruwan-hotel.com.tw), or check in at any of the fine hot spring resorts in neighboring Chihpen.

National Museum of Prehistory 1, Museum Road. Feng Tien Li, Taitung 089 381166; 382000 www.nmp.gov.tw/