TEMPLES! Where the new world meets the old.

---By Yuta Lee Translated by Annie Liu

( Valued readers, please note that FYI South neither advocates, nor refutes any religious practice. We're just respectfully letting you know what visiting a temple is about. Ed.)

Temples. In Taiwan, they are as common as corner convenient stores. Yet the urban commotion of mosquito-like scooters and those annoying blue delivery trucks drown out their existence. Here, we present you (visitors, expats and locals alike) with a practical guide to checking out a temple. We will avoid lengthy descriptions on history and religious beliefs. Instead, this guide provides step-by-step instructions for your temple experience. So if you haven't already ventured into a temple, read on ... hopefully this guide will show you the way.

Step 1: Finding a temple
There are more than 33,000 religious buildings in Taiwan, including temples, churches and mosques. Of these, an estimated 25,000 temples are predominantly Taoist or Buddhist. They are fairly easy to spot as they are colorfully ornate and typically oriental.
Although temples are fairly similar in architectural style, they vary in size. Common architectural characteristics include traditional Chinese roofs with upturned eaves. The top beam of the roof is adorned with water dragons to ward off fire. Decorative dragons and heavenly-themed stone or concrete columns flank the entrance. The large lacquered doors are painted with spiritual guards, nobles or maidens. There are lots of temples in your neighborhood. Find one that gives you a sense of peace and a strong karmic connection.
Taiwanese temples are a mix of Taoism and Buddhism. Both are polydeist religions, where more than one god is worshipped. There are often, but not always, both Taoist and Buddhist gods residing in the same temple. As with any large organization, there is a hierarchy of gods. The top three Taoist gods are the Celestial Worthy of Primordial Beginning, the Celestial Worthy of Numinous Treasure and the Celestial Worthy of the Way and Its Virtue. Below them are gods of lower ranks, who have various responsibilities. The highest among them is the Jade Emperor, followed by the four major deities. Together, there are more than 360 Taoist gods in existence. Buddhist gods that may also reside in the temple include Guan Gong (god of war), Kuan Yin (goddess of compassion) and Happy Buddha.

Step 2: Understanding the layout
The interiors of temples have similar layouts. As you approach the front of the temple, it is customary to enter through the right door, marked by a dragon, and exit through the left door, marked by a tiger. In the center of the main room you will see the primary god, a large offering table and an incense urn. The primary god will be surrounded by a multitude of figurines, which are his servants and guards. There will also be lesser gods either in the same room, or in separate rooms to the left and right of the primary god.
Worshippers place gold paper and fruits on the offering table. You will see many teacups, which will be offered in the morning and evening by the temple staff. Incense will be blazing from the central urn, as well as other urns before the lesser gods. Take a moment to take in the visual details, the smell of incense and the quiet reflection of worshippers.

Step 3: Make an offering
Consistent with the Chinese custom of never showing up without a greeting gift, you can choose to make an offering to the gods. Luckily, the temple staff can provide everything you need. Look for (typically) an elderly woman or man at a desk, filled with stacks of gold paper and incense. Pay for a stack of gold paper and incense. Ask first, but they usually cost between NT$100 and NT$150. The gold paper is equivalent to spiritual currency. Approach the offering table, and as you hold the offering in your hand, bow to the god. Then place the gold paper stack on the offering table. Next, light the incense with lighters nearby.

Step 4: Make your rounds and say hello to everyone
Peace and happiness are good things. As you visit the various gods, present yourself by whispering your name and ask for peace and happiness. Let's make the rounds.
First stand in the center hall and face the sky outside. Greet the sky god and place incense in the urn outside. Come back into the hall, greet the primary god and offer incense in the central urn. Walk in a counter-clock wise motion, visit all the other gods inside the temple and ask for peace and happiness, placing incense at each urn. Since each temple will house various lesser gods, this would be a good opportunity to invite a local friend on your excursion.

Step 5: Asking for a Favor
Will you make a million NT dollars this year? Will you get married next year? The gods have answers. There are two ways to communicate this: (1) using red crescent-shaped wooden blocks; or (2) drawing a fortune stick. Both are located either on or near the offering table. To ask a favor or fortune, mentally repeat your name, birth date, address and the question or favor.
The crescent blocks are convex on one side and flat on the other. For an answer, you drop the blocks on the ground. If one block lands convex side up and the other flat side up, the answer is positive and the omen is good. If both blocks land convex side up, then the answer is negative and the omen is bad. If both blocks land flat side up, then the answer is neutral. Rephrase the question and try again.
To use the fortune sticks, find a cylinder filled with bamboo sticks with numbers on them. If you can physically pick up the cylinders, then shake them until one falls out naturally. Otherwise, randomly pick a fortune stick and place it on the table. Then use the crescent blocks to ask the god whether this fortune stick is for you. Once you've confirmed your fortune stick, find the corresponding number kept in an ornate chest of drawers nearby. The fortune is written cryptically in poetic form on a small piece of paper and can be interpreted in many ways. But the general positive or negative message is clear.

Step 6: Torch the offering!
Yes. Burn it all. Burning the gold paper is the equivalent of wire transferring cash to the gods. Take the stack of gold paper to the big ornate outdoor furnace. Light the gold paper, starting with the larger notes, and throw them into the furnace. Get a good fire going and burn all of it. Sometimes the offering stack will include a cake wrapped in pink paper. The cake is a symbolism of good blessing and is for you to eat. It tastes like a dry powdered cookie. You're done.
If you feel uncomfortable making an offering, there is no harm in visiting the temple and looking around. It is also acceptable to take pictures, but always ask the staff for permission. Most will not speak English, so just point to your camera and they should nod back. Now go forth and explore.

(Please note that this feature merely serves as an introductory guide to visiting temples in Taiwan. If you are interested in learning more, ask the staff at the temple. Those who do not speak Chinese would be well advised to take a friend who can help translate. Even if you do not agree with the religions practiced, be respectful of the fact that temples are places of worship and should be approached as such. Ed.)