EXPLORING TAIWAN'S UNSPOILED EAST

By Steven Crook

      There's more space, fewer people, and far fewer factories.

      In addition to 300 kilometers of coastline, and spectacular views of the Central Mountain Range, the two counties share a row of substantial peaks all their own--the 170-kilometer-long Coastal Mountain Range.

      The 104-kilometer-long Hsiukuluan River is a well-known venue for rafting.

      Aboriginal groups in East Taiwan have been able to preserve many of their traditions: The Paiwan tribe will hold their quinquennial Bamboo Festival on October 25, 2003.

      I got off the train at Wanrung, a small aboriginal town 40 kilometers southwest of Hualien. There are a few eateries near the train station, some mom-and-pop stores, but no hotels, and no obvious signs to Lintienshan.

      From photos I knew what to expect: a hillside village of quaint Japanese-style wooden bungalows which, during Lintienshan's heyday, was dubbed ¡§Hualien¡¦s Jiufen."

      Lintienshan owes its existence to the surrounding forests, rich in Chinese juniper and Japanese cypress trees. A logging railway, now disused and overgrown, penetrated deep into the mountains. Unfortunately, the area's woodlands were devastated by a forest fire in 1972.

      The central part of the settlement has been well cared for. The buildings have been repainted, and signs indicate their original function: Rice Store, Fish & Tea Store, Ice Store, and so on. One room has been turned into a small museum.

      Lintienshan is satisfying in that what you see at first is uninspiring, but more and more is revealed as you wander around the settlement. It's easy to spend half a day here, and not far up the Wanlichiao River are hot springs which can be reached by jeep or on foot.

      A signboard there points the way to three tiny aboriginal villages. The road is fine for walking or mountain biking, but is too narrow for cars and SUVs.

      On one of the busiest weekends of the year, I met just two other hikers. I soon reached Meiyuan, where half-a-dozen aboriginal families work large vegetable fields.

      This village has an enviable setting. It looks down over a spectacular rocky gorge; at the far end of the valley, the peaks of Nanhudashan loom.

      It took me more than an hour of determined uphill walking to reach this spot, where a sign warns of bears, boars, snakes, bees, and poisonous plantlife. On the way I had seen several monkeys and a few squirrels, but nothing bigger--and nothing that didn¡¦t seem terrified of humans.

      After several hours' hard hiking, my thoughts turned to soaking. There are dozens in East Taiwan; Wenshan Hot Springs, 45 minutes' walk from Tienhsiang, are pleasantly situated beside a clean, cold stream--and admission is free.

      But make time for East Taiwan's other attractions, where the crowds are smaller--or non-existent--and the views more than worth a long drive over the Southern Cross-Island Highway, a relaxing rail journey from Tainan, or a short flight from Kaohsiung.

GETTING TO THE EAST FROM THE SOUTH

      Drivers have two options: the Nan-Hui Road (Provincial Highway No. 1, then No. 9), a route which goes almost as far south as Kenting before swinging east, and the Southern Cross-Island Highway. The former is your best bet if Taitung is your objective. The latter saves time if you're heading for Hualien, but it can be a white-knuckle journey for those who've never before experienced Taiwan's twisting mountain roads. Both routes have reliable but infrequent public bus services.