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Pong
Lai Village
at the Howard Plaza
Pong Lai Village at the Howard
Plaza
160, RenAi Rd., Sec. 3
(02) 2326-7433
Hours: 11:30 am-2:30 pm, 5:30-9:30 pm
Beyond a doubt, Taiwanese cuisine
represents Taiwan's culture and traditions at
their best. In Taipei, the only dedicated Taiwanese
restaurant in a five-star hotel is the Howard
Plaza Hotel's Pong Lai Village. This establishment
has been around for 20 years, the same length
of time that Executive Chef Wang Zhe-wen has been
working there.
In much-earlier days, there was a constant shortage
of supplies. As a result, oil was extensively
used in local dishes to give energy to the ingredients.
For the same reason, seasoning also tended to
be heavy. Over time, however, both oil and seasoning
have been reduced significantly. This includes
MSG, which used to play a key role in Taiwanese
cooking but has since faded as restaurants increasingly
lean towards health-oriented dietary trends.
Lo Di Ding Siang (NT$230), a
combination of fried baby fish, peanuts and chilis,
gives out a crunchy yet non-greasy texture and
goes perfectly with Yam Rice Porridge. Ma Lu Stewed
Pork (NT$200), unlike other stewed pork dishes,
features pork that is fried first and then cooked
with sugar cane juice and red sugar, adding a
natural sweetness. The fresh-tasting Mashed Garlic
Prawn (NT$55 for 50 grams) is made with steamed
fresh prawns, to which crushed garlic is added.
Tainan's most famous local dish, Dan Zi Noodles
(NT$60), is cooked in a pig bone broth to give
a stronger, yet non-greasy flavor, that stands
apart from similar dishes elsewhere. Light and
sweet Penghu Gourd (NT$200) and Pickled Pig Stomach
(NT$130) are authentic Taiwanese dishes you shouldn't
miss, either.
Finally, for dessert there's the restaurant's
unique Almond Tofu (NT$60) which doesn't contain
the artificial flavorings frequently found in
this dish. By contrast, chefs use natural almond
fragrance during preparation. The resulting smooth
flavors, combined with mango, will stay with you
for days.
Prices are reasonable and comparatively cheap,
particularly in light of Pong Lai Village's five-star
rating. Thanks to its exclusive use of fresh local
ingredients and the superior experience of its
veteran chefs, this is a hard-to-beat spot for
anyone craving some authentic Taiwanese cuisine.
---By Hsiang Ray
Translated by Sho Huang

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