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Exotic Cuisine Love Affair Cosi-o-Cosi Trattoria Italiana 155, DunHua S. Rd., Sec 1 Reservations: (02) 2771-5883 Hours: Lunch 12 pm-2:30 pm, Dinner/ 6:30-11 pm ( last orders 10:30 pm)

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--By Tracy Perkins Translated by Irene Chiang

Taiwan Fun Magazine scored an unwitting scoop here; all previous requests from the press to do reviews of this little gem have been politely turned down. As the proprietor explained to me, "I don't want hundreds of people queuing to get in here. They don't know how to wait. Quality takes time. With too many people, quality suffers." Those who understand this become part of Cosi-o-Cosi's small, but fanatically loyal, clientele. This is "la vera cucina Italiana", the true spirit of Italian cooking, where only the finest ingredients are used -- not a sloppy imitation. The menu is small so that quality can be strictly maintained. Antipasti range from NT$120 to NT$420, pasta dishes from NT$280 to NT$420, and the superb pizzas from NT$260 to NT$420. There is a minimum charge of NT$450 per person except for the weekday lunch set meal (NT$260) which includes a salad, pizza/pasta of the day and coffee.