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Authentic German Cuisine Zum Fass 116,118, XinSen N. Rd., Sec 1 (02) 2531-3815 Hours: 5:30 pm-12 am last order: 11:30 pm Credit cards accepted.

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--By Brian Asmus & Tracy Perkins & Josie Wu Translated by Michael Ho& Ann Li

Taipei's long-reigning German restaurant, Zum Fass, is located in an alley that is choc-a-bloc with local eateries long popular with Japanese tourists and residents. Tables in this cozy, Bavarian kellar restaurant-all stone walls and stained wood-are usually fully booked with diners happily chowing down on German sausages, pork knuckle and finely prepared fish. While the decor is a bit dated and the furnishings a bit worn, this merely adds to the cozy, lived-in feel that makes Zum Fass so inviting. I opted for Pickled Herring (NT$200) followed by Salmon with Lemon-Butter Sauce (NT$460). To accompany this, I decided to go with the house wine-a German white (NT$170 per glass). Lightly toasted brown bread with parsley and butter quickly appeared, followed a few minutes later by the pickled herring, accompanied by a robust German potato salad. The pickling was southern German-sweeter than northern German cuisine. The salmon was tantalizingly moist, the sauce offering a nice balance between buttery creamy richness and lemon acidity. Zum Fass is an ideal choice for cozy dinners when you are in the mood for casual congeniality.