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Chi Teh Stinky Tofu (Remember Stinky Tofu) 71, Tung Hua Street (02) 2708-8766 Hours: 11 am-4 am

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       "Chi Teh" Stinky Tofu restaurant, with its green decor, bright lighting and neatly-arranged cooking equipment, is a cozy and inviting place. Tofu is the order of the day here, and not just the eponymous stinky tofu--which comes in crispy, lightly steamed and "sausage" varieties--but also other tofu dishes like spicy mala tofu. Barbequed meat "tzongzi" and fish-ball soup are also on the menu. The main thing that distinguishes tofu served here from other places is the vegetable oil that is used as a condiment. The vegetables are marinated Hong Kong-style. Stinky tofu made with shrimp heads and fish stomach is quite unusual. The result is a particularly light-tasting stinky tofu that isn't oily or excessively filling. Another thing in this shop's favor is that the tofu bits don't break up when you lift them with your chopsticks. Dishes include Mala Duck Blood (NT$50), "Five-Watch" Mala (mala duck blood plus stinky tofu) (NT$80), and Crispy Stinky Tofu (NT$50). -- By Yi Wen Chen, translated by Jacques van Wersch