Jake's Country Kitchen 705, Chungshan North Road, Section 6 Tel: (02) 2871-5289 Hours: Kitchen: 6:30am to midnight Bar: 6pm to 2am

By Graham Norris Translated

Jake's has got to be one of the most written-about Western restaurants in Taipei. The reason: It's been around longer than most of its competitors.

Owner Jake Lo learned Western recipes while working for the US Army here in Taiwan. In 1979, after the GIs had left, he decided to carry on his work in a restaurant of his own. He now owns a two-floor establishment in Tienmu. Decked out in dark wood and movie posters, downstairs has a homely feel, while upstairs is more like a bar. The staff all speak English, although at times there seem to be too few of them.

Breakfasts are a specialty. The Grand Slam (NT$220 before 11am, NT$280 after) has everything: bacon, sausage, ham, two eggs, pancake, hash brown, juice and coffee. There are several kinds of pancake to choose from (NT$120 to NT$170), plus eggs benedict (NT$210).

Jake's is also proud of its Mexican selection. Choose from tacos, burritos, enchildas quesadillas, tostadas and chimichangas. One costs NT$150, two NT$260. There¡¦s an interesting Italian selection (NT$160 to NT$320). You can also order a pizza from scratch; the price depends on how many toppings you want. American favorites include burgers (NT$100 to NT$180), sandwiches, American fried chicken and chicken wings.

The drinks selection is not huge, but there is a fine selection of desserts.

Jake's is for many people a home from home, which is why Jake has managed to keep going for so long in a city where things change so quickly.