Tai Ya Po Po (Atayal mother-in-law) Restaurant 14, WuLai St., Wulai Hsiang (township), Taipei County Tel: (02) 2661-6371; 2661-6315 Hours: 9 am-11 pm

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"Tai Ya Po Po" refers to the Aborigine woman of the Atayal tribe who opened this restaurant along Wulai Street--a very popular tourist area--about five years ago. Her son and daughter-in-law now mostly run this thriving business. The food is made from scratch and is slightly modified to suit local tastes. One of the more authentic dishes is raw wild boar meat preserved in rice and salt (NT$200). This is definitely an acquired taste, as the meat is chewy and the taste is both salty and sour. Other unique and great-tasting dishes include the aboriginal jongtze (steamed dumpling made with sticky rice--NT$50), fried trout (NT$300), mountain pepper (magau) papaya chicken soup (NT$100), banana rice, fried wild yam rolls (NT$120) and sticky rice cooked in bamboo. At the entrance to the restaurant is a selection of fresh wild greens that diners can choose to complement their meal. Inside, the walls are lined with bamboo. This is a small and definitely lively and crowded place. Ms. Lin, the owner's very friendly daughter-in-law, is--together with the great food--one of the reasons that many customers come here again and again.

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