Hsinchu by HSR and Pedal Power

Words and photos by Josie Wu Translated by Ann Lee
Some photos provide by Hsinchu City Government

The current wave of health consciousness--both for our bodies and for the environment--doesn't mean that we can't have any fun. If you want to go on a day trip, but feel guilty about car exhaust, gas consumption or other wasteful habits, then perhaps a eco-friendly trip to Hsinchu is in order.

Now, the deciduous trees lose their browning leaves and mornings finally get cool enough to venture out into the rural parts of Taiwan enjoy their most beautiful season. Now you to can get out there and shed the layer of grime and stress that builds up in the city.
A 30-minute HSR ride north will bring you to Hsinchu. The cost of train tickets varies between weekends and weekdays, and some specials make tickets even more affordable. Don't forget to check out the "Double Color Rate Specials"; these specials offer a 15% discount off of reserved seats and 35% off non-reserved. If you pay close attention to the fine print and do your research on travel websites, you may even get a free lunch or afternoon tea during your journey.

Though there is a regular shuttle bus that will take you to downtown Hsinchu (free until December), don't be in a hurry to step out of the station. Well-designed with geometric patterns, old-fashioned archways and a steel roof, the station is an artistic landmark that incorporates a juxtaposition between the traditional and modern and the corporate and cultural that exists in Hsinchu and indeed all of Taiwan.

The first stop of the aforementioned shuttle bus is the 250-year-old Cheng Huang Temple, a famous tourist attraction on ZhongShan Road. Since Cheng Huang, the temple's resident god, rules between heaven and hell, the temple can be seen as a sort of gate between the two worlds. The avenues near the temple are full of markets and food vendors spooning out local delicacies.

Squid Thick Soup with Crunchy Eggs (NT$35) and Deep Fried Meatballs with Red Fermented Rice (NT$35) from Grandma Lien's are good dishes to try. Another local recommendation, Pork Minced with Rice (NT$25) from Liou's Pork Minced Rice Shop has been around since 1931. A-Zhong's is a 40-year-old shop that offers refreshing icy treats. The owners make their exclusive, homemade pineapple syrup, which is a famous dessert treat in town. Zuqian Cake is Hsinchu's local specialty snack, and you can get it right next to Cheng Huang Temple at Xin Fu Zhen, a shop that is almost as old as the temple itself. Another Hsinchu specialty food, Pork Balls (or Gong Wan), can be purchased at a place called Hair Rei, which is located within a stone's throw from the temple.

Near this bustling area is another tourist attraction--Beimen Street. The area, which has been a home to business and commercial activities for more than two centuries, is lined with diverse, colorful buildings that stand as a testament to Hsinchu's tumultuous history. On this street alone, you'll find Minnan architecture from the Qing dynasty, houses from the Japanese colonial period, Baroque-influenced buildings, pre-and post-war architectural styles, and recently built corporate buildings. One building of interest is the Zheng Yong-xi Residence, which was built in 1838.

Besides a visual representation of Taiwan's history, you can also get another local delicacy on Beiman Street. Hei Mao Buns (NT$20) have been served here for more than 100 years. Other spots worth visiting in the area include Dongmen Township and Qin Shuei Waterpark. After your nostalgic stroll, you can head to Nanliao's Fishing Port, where breathtaking coastal scenery and a cool sea breeze will keep you refreshed.

Since the Hsinchu City Government put forth a lot of effort to build up the Nanliao Fishing Port and Kangnan coastal areas, these have become great places for tourists to visit. Especially relevant to our eco-friendly weekend in the area are the Hsinchu City Coastal Bike Pathways. There's no better way to see the local scenery than by the power of your own legs. And, yes, there are plenty of places to rent bicycles and tandems for the day. With fresh air in your lungs and a rejuvenating feeling circulating through your body, you can't help but say to yourself, "Isn't this better than a tour bus?"
It is really worth taking the time to plan and stay around these areas and enjoy what it has to offer. The seaport sells live local seafood and nearby restaurants will cook up the catch-of-the-day in no time. A stroll to the Qin Shuei Waterpark will give you a fun-filled afternoon. The nearby sports park, equipped with a nice playground and picnic area, should also be great for some family fun. A sand sculpture field and a climbing wall are located in the Red Forest Area (Hong Shu Lin). Lovebirds may want to spend time by the beach catching crabs or flying kites and bird-watching. Whether it is swimming, biking or strolling on the beach that catches your fancy, the seaport area is full of suitable activities for family and friends.

Apart from downtown and the coastal areas, tourists can also enjoy an ancient area called Hukou Old Street, where the train stations sat in the old days. This peaceful street is 300 meters long and filled with antique houses. Its serene, low-key ambiance is heightened by red brick buildings and arched doorways. Its baroque-style door signs pull you in for a closer look and make you walk just a little slower through the shadowed avenue. On this street, a Hakka restaurant called "Bai Nian Sui Yue" decorated with traditional Taiwanese fittings, provides a unique dining ambiance.
The final Hsinchu hot spot is located about five kilometers away from the HSR station, on County Highway 117. This is the Hsinchu Industrial Park (Science Park) and an up-and-coming area filled with engineering firms and other commercial businesses. If you like visiting science and technology hubs, then this place is for you.

Liou's Pork Mince Rice Shop
(03) 526-7980, (03) 526-7990
Do not miss the first shop located inside the Cheng Huang Temple Square. Apart from their signature dish, Pork Minced Rice, other dishes like the Fried Rice Vermicelli, Squid Thick Soup (NT$35) and Stewed Duck Egg (NT$10) are also simple but delicate Taiwanese-style dishes only available at Liou's shop.

Bicycle-Rental (On average, bike rental is NT$100/bike, and NT$250 for tandems. Here are some companies):
* Qi Te Yi Leisure Bike Rental (03) 536-2795, 0921-186737
* Kang-Nan Scenic Club (03) 530-7896, 0920-706692
* Hai-Pu Bike Rental (03) 530-3599
* Jin Cheng Bike Rental (03) 539-6473, 0922-321820
* Giant Nanliao Rental Stop (03) 536-7420, 0982-904704

Hotel Accommodation in Hsinchu City:
* Forte Hotel Hsinchu (03) 529-6888; 3, FuQun St
* Wego Boutique Hotel (03) 523-8080; 137, ZhongCheng Rd
* The Carlton Hotel (03) 525-9999; 225, BeiDa Rd
* Howard Plaza Hotel Hsinchu (03) 528-2323; 178, ZhongCheng Rd
* Chinatrust Hotel (03) 526-3181; 106, ZhongYang Rd, 8-15F
* Lakeshore Hotel Hsinchu (03) 520-3181; 51, Lane 775, MingHu Rd