Track your way 'round the Island: Taiwan's best train journeys

Words and photos by Gu Ting-Wei
Translated by Ann Lee

This month, we're taking a break from the MRT and high-speed rail buzz and taking you out of the city, where you can turn off your laptops and get off your butt, because Taiwan Fun has something better to offer—Taiwan's best journeys, by train that is. As a start, there are quite a few destinations and themes available for railway journeys. Aside from the three well-known passenger transport lines operated by Taiwan Railway (PingXi, NeiWam, JiJi), we also provide alternative options, so you can easily "rail" your way around the island in whatever fashion you want.

Taiwan's railway history started as early as 1876, when workers laid out a light rail at a mining operation in Badouzi. Along with a long-standing history, there are also many historical relics and inspiring architecture. The development of the districts along Badouzi were heavily influenced by its railway culture, making the area quite interesting.

Mu-Zao (wooden) train stations at Coastal Line stops
Coastal rail line stops were fully available for public travel back in 1922. Today, there are still five wooden stations in Tanwen, Dashan, Xinpu, Rinan and Zhuifen that are open to vehicular traffic. These wooden stations, "Mu-Zao" in Chinese, are small, exquisite and nostalgic. Within the five stations mentioned above, Zhuifen is slightly larger and has a somewhat different look from other ones. This station is also famous for their "Zhuifen Success" train tickets that are sold throughout Taiwan. Xinpu, the station closest to the ocean, has appeared on television commercials. When you take a train to this area, not only can you enjoy some beautiful sea views, but you will also be able to experience the serenity of seaside villages.
Tip: Some express trains with designated seats will stop at Coastal Line stations so, if you would like to catch one, make sure you find out the number of scheduled trains before you travel.

Sweet sugar journey
The sugar industry in Taiwan used to hold a significant place in the world and, back then, railways for the sugar industry were densely spread over the plains on the western side; the total length of the railway was well over 3,000 kilometers and taking the train was a great way to view some of Taiwan's rural village landscapes. However, after the sugar industry degenerated, the railways also vanished quickly, leaving only a few lines, mostly used by factories to transport sugar cane. Since many sugar refineries have evolved into sightseeing spots, "Ancient Wufen Train" routes were also developed and are open to the public to enjoy some sugar culture and history.

Among these rural routes, we recommend itineraries that will take you through Xinying, Wushulin and Suantou sugar refineries. Xinying sugar refinery is very close to the Xinying train station. Here, tourists can buy some sweet popsicles made by the factory, as well as see a display of many miniature trains. When you first get on the quaint Wufen train, you travel across a bridge over a creek, through cultivated fields, and finally to an agricultural division called Bawenglao, where you can enjoy assorted dairy products from a nearby farm at the terminal stop.

Wushulin sugar refinery has a preserved steam locomotive that is turned on during weekends and holidays. You can take a ride on it and enjoy the southern countryside. This factory not only displays railway vehicles, but it also showcases various artifacts related to the sugar business, giving visitors a better understanding of the industry in its prime. At Suantou factory, take a guided tour and see the internal workings of the factory and learn how sugar cane becomes granulated sugar.

Experience a national treasure via Alishan railways
Considered one of best views in Taiwan, this train that climbs to Alishan takes passengers from sea level to altitudes of over 2,000 meters above. The landscape along the ride is luscious and diverse; the tracks themselves make passengers realize what an intense feat of engineering the construction must have been. The track's strategic spiral twists to the mountain top, making this train, although slow-moving at times, an unforgettable ride.

At the moment, the Forestry Bureau is actively repairing 921 earthquake damage to the Mianyue line, and is also reconstructing another mountain line. When the projects are complete, Alishan will not only have the Zhushan line, which takes visitors to view the famous sunrise, but also two other mountain routes for sightseeing. Now, Alishan railway has three revived and running steam locomotives. These engines have very rare and valuable full-length cylinders, which attract many local and foreign railway fans. In the future, tourists may even see these steam locomotives running up and down the rails on a regular basis, truly revealing the value of Alishan's railways.
Tip: The scheduled runs are somewhat rare for Alishan Railways; there is usually only one round-trip available per day.

The journey up the mountain leaves Chiayi at 1:30 p.m. and arrives around 5:21 p.m. One-way tickets are NT$399. Taking the ZiQiang Express from Taipei to Chiayi takes about 3 hours and 25 minutes and costs NT$600. Kaohsiung to Chiayi costs NT$248 and takes about 1 hour and 20 minutes.

Taking it slow on Lan-Pi Coach Trains
Antique trains have slowly become obsolete over time. Nowadays, if you want to ride on trains with, say, windows you can open anytime throughout the journey, you can only take a few routes near Ilan and Hualien. The south-bound trains here have impeccable coastal views, which are the most famous in Taiwan. Specifically well-known is the Hua-Dong line's Zong-Gu ride which takes passengers through Hualien and the east coast, leaving the noise and dirt of the city far behind. However, such "Lan-Pi" (blue-skin) trains are rare; the Hua-Dong line only makes one return trip a day and the south-bound line only has two. For an unforgettable trip down south, make sure to do your research.

Tip: Hua-Dong coach lines only make one return trip per day and the south-bound trains tend to run at a later time of the day so, if you're going north, take the Number 200 train. Departure times are as follows: Taitung 7:05 a.m., Yuli 8:52 a.m., Ruisui 9:59 a.m., and Hualien 11:23 a.m.

Taking a journey through time and Perusing historical artifacts
As railroad culture became more popular in Taiwan, many train-era artifacts and memorabilia have been "rediscovered." Some locations, like tunnel sites, have become fine tourist spots and parks. A few examples of these spots are the ZaoQiao Tunnel, Miaoli Tunnel, and Keelung's Shi-Qiu-Ling Tunnel. These old railway remains were turned into single lane roads that are generally full of people walking, running and biking on weekends. All of the restoration work and, care and the added scenic areas really represents a growth in cultural preservation for the railways in Taiwan.

Tip: If visitors do some background research about the site before visiting, the experience will be even more enjoyable.

How to Obtain Railway Information in Taiwan
For starters, check out these informative websites:
Taiwan Tourism Bureau: http://taiwan.net.tw/lan/Cht/index/index.asp
Taiwan Railway Administration: http://www.railway.gov.tw/index/index.aspx
Taiwan Railway Administration, for checking schedules: http://new.twtraffic.com.tw/twrail/
Alishan Forest Railway: http://railway.forest.gov.tw/
Taiwan High Speed Rail: http://www.thsrc.com.tw/tw/index.htm
Taiwan Sugar Corporation: http://www.taisugar.com.tw/etaipei2/TaiSugar/index.jsp
Suan Tou Sugar Refinery Zhe-Cheng Culture Center: http://t00310.hihosting.hinet.net/branch.html
Travel Taiwan Rail: http://www.travel-taiwan-rail.idv.tw/
Although these sites provide instant information, more extensive knowledge of Taiwanese railroads and train culture can be found in books, so check out libraries and book stores. Also, there is currently a bimonthly magazine publication focused on railway information in Taiwan, introducing the latest development of railways and various tracks in Taiwan. The group's blog is as follows: http://www.wretch.cc/blog/RailNews. Another recommendation is a booklet called "Taiwan Railway Travelers' Information," which provides a timetable for Taiwan railway and high-speed trains, as well as the transit buses available for all passengers at different locations. All in all, this is a great resource to own if you are interested general sightseeing spots throughout the island.