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Taiwan Fun, April 2002. VOL. 2 ISSUE 4

Cover Story :

A Long Walk Down An He Road

By Mike Armstrong Translated by Priscilla Chen

"Bright lights, big city". These words came to mind as I walked out of the Far Eastern Plaza Hotel (201, DunHua South Rd., sec. 2; tel. 02-2378-8888) at the juncture of Dun Hua (Tun Hua) South and An He (An Ho) roads. I had just been having a warm, wonderful hot chocolate drink at Paul's on the 38th floor. I like the place because of the jazz that is played there, plus the mesmerizing view of the city. It's early evening and I'm out to explore. The great thing is that I'm on one of the best streets in Taipei to have a good time.

While Tienmu, the Combat Zone and parts of Dun Hua Road have clusters of night spots, An He Road is different. The street originally started out with a more residential feeling, lined by upscale buildings. Then came the retail stores, showing off high-fashion clothing and jewelry. While the residences and retail are still there, the restaurants and night spots that are rapidly opening up within easy walking distance of each other make An He Road a real destination.

I also like trees and An He Road has plenty of trees. It reminds me that Taipei isn't all concrete towers and alleyways. The road also doesn't have the massive traffic that one sees on the more-visited thoroughfares. There are sidewalks to walk down without motorcycles and cars blocking your way.

At 120, An He Road, section 2 (tel. 02-8732-4599), I came to Outback Bar & Grill, featuring California-style neon lighting. Going inside, I saw a beautiful bar with an intimate dining room in the back. The lighting was low and the mood enticing enough to have a drink at the bar. Belgian beers are a specialty here but I drank my staple, Jim Beam and Coke. The standard NT$200 is paid and the pour is good. I met some friendly people, including owner Gordon Yang. He told me the place is actually modeled after sophisticated bars he saw in Tokyo.

After my drink, I decided to visit Saints & Sinners (114-116, An He Rd., sec. 2; tel. 02-2739-9001). The manager, Donnabel Lin, always makes me feel welcome (as she does with every customer). Being a bit hungry, I ordered the chicken quesadillas along with another Jim Beam & Coke. The bar staff talked to me and I felt very much at home. Saints & Sinners has the feeling of a neighborhood bar where there is genuine interest in what is happening in people's lives. After finishing my meal, I said my goodbyes and headed out the door. The food was great at Saints & Sinners, but I realized I was still a little hungry.

Not far away is the Shintori Japanese Restaurant (68, An He Rd., sec. 2; tel. 02-2706-5548), plus a French restaurant, Le Bistro de L'Olivier (145, An He Rd., sec. 2; tel. 02-8732-3726) and a pasta restaurant, Modul. While restaurants are great, I wanted a little more action than just sitting down.

Carnegie's (100, An He Rd., sec. 2; tel. 02-2325-4435) serves food and I can sit at the bar--cool. As usual, the place is busy, with people mingling, talking and laughing. I order my Jim Beam & Coke and see Dave Marshall, the manager. We talk a little and then he's off to take care of his busy place. The music is great and I know people are going to be dancing on the bar soon. I ordered some Calamari which I ate quickly, deciding there is more adventure waiting for me down the street.

Tickle My Fantasy caught my attention some time back, with its name, sleek expensive cars parked in front and beautiful women walking inside. Going inside, I am greeted by the owner. She knows the bar business well, having managed restaurants for about 15 years. Tickle My Fantasy, with its tasteful art and decor, is her brainchild, a product of her desire to make her friends and customers feel comfortable. As I drink my Jim Beam & Coke, I see the place isn't as crowded as the bar I just left. She smiles and tells me to wait. This is a place that customers come to later in the evening. I'm tempted to stay, but I've got it in my mind to venture further down. I started at Dun Hua South Road and wanted to finish where An He Road meets Ren Ai (Jen Ai) Road. That's not going to happen if I sit where I am, no matter how pleasing Tickle My Fantasy is. I toy with the idea of ordering more food because they have a special, but I'm always telling myself not to overeat. Two small meals in the past couple hours is enough for now.

The area is more residential as I walk down the road and a slight breeze rushes through my hair and the tree leaves. It's really pleasant to see few cars go by as I walk. I'm reminded a little of walking to bars in Georgetown, Washington, D.C, when I was in college. Not a bad memory. I realize I'm near Watershed. This isn't exactly on An He Road, but certainly right off of it. Going inside Watershed (123, Wen Chang St., tel. 02-2707-6121) you'll find yourself in a place that is narrow with very high ceilings. The bar is also very high with equally high bar stools. The decor is spartan. Xiaoluo, the owner, likes it this way because he knows that is is almost the opposite if you go to the downstairs area. Although there is no actual bar, the lower level has low ceilings with Chinese antique sofas, chairs and tables, making the atmosphere reminiscent of China in the 1930s. It's a place where friends can get together and talk. The upstairs is like that, too, but without quite the same feeling. Xiaoluo doesn't advertise his place, as most of his business is from word of mouth. That's what makes Watershed cool. You have to be told about the place to know that it exists. This breeds a kind of in-the-know attitude. Prices are reasonable for Taipei (NT$200 for Jim Beam & Coke). The pours are good so you feel like there is value in your drink.

After finishing my drink and enjoying my conversation, I head down towards the end of An He Road. This part of the street is even more residential, although you still have the venues of It's (151, An He Rd., sec. 2; tel. 02-2377-7373), Ez5 (211, An He Rd., sec. 2; tel. 02-2738-3995) and Sirduke ( tel. 02-2701-7877). However, it is the establishment Champagne (75, An He Rd. sec. 1; tel. 02-2755-7976) that is the star of this area. Entering is a treat to the eye if you are a person who enjoys wine. Bottles of champagne and wine are displayed on a wall inside a temperature-controlled glass case. It's impressive when you realize all of the vintages are different. If that doesn't make you feel you've come to a special place, looking around the venue itself assures yourself you have. Overstuffed sofas and chairs surrounding low, wide square tables invite you to sit down with your friends and relax. If you are more a bar area person, there's no problem because the bar is a beauty, stocked with many brands of premium liquor. I order my drink (you should not have to guess by now) and watch business.

This is a definite people-watching place. The manager takes time out to talk with me and tells me his customers are from many different professions. Yes, there are TV stars and famous personalities, but mostly young successful workers in various Taiwan industries that come to Champagne for its sophistication. Jackie Lee tells me that, although he carries over 150 wines, it is champagne (they have over 70 types) he recommends to his customers for the bubbly high it gives. You don't stay sad. I listen to this and now I wish I had tried some. Well, next time. I make my good-byes and head out the door, when I finally located it.

It's time for me to go home. Mr. Jim Beam doesn't seem like my friend any longer. I need to walk in some fresh air. I've had a fun night walking down An He Road and, now, walking is going to make my impending hangover less lethal. That truly is the joy of this by-way, which cuts through Taipei. You don't need a taxi to go from place to place and there is so much variety in places to hang out, whether you only want food, a bar or both. I myself am going to look for a coffee shop.

So, take a night out and discover this treasure called An He Road for yourself. It might make you really glad you live in Taipei. A street that can do this is totally worth visiting.

Click here to see a map of the tour.