HI HOUSE   52, Hui Jung Road, section 1 (04) 2258-8855; Hours: 6 pm-4 am

       Beyond a doubt, HI House is a one of Taichung's classiest bar and restaurant establishments, as the owners have spared no expense to create a large, exquisitely-decorated jazz restaurant. The first-floor entrance leads up a stairway and opens onto the spacious second floor area, which seats 120 around tables on the main floor and in curtained-off cubicles around the edges that hold about 10 (minimum charge of NT$5,000 for these). Impossible to miss is probably Taichung's best-looking bar--a big, grand-looking fixture back-lit with orange and filled with bottles of all sizes and shapes. The other center of attention is the large stage, which features good nightly live performances -- a duet from 7 to 9 p.m. and jazz ensembles from 10 p.m. on. In another corner is a walk-in humidor and wine cellar, with 80 types of fine cigars and over 60 red wines. This place caters to a slightly-older, white-collar crowd and has a NT$300/person minimum charge. In keeping with the decor, the dining menu is very extensive and filled with Italian/French cuisine, from lobsters to pastas. Set-menu meals (NT$800-1,400) are offered to10 p.m. with main courses like the Pan-Fried Salmon with tomato salsa and asparagus. There are plenty of a la carte dishes offered until 2 a.m., like the NT$600 Traditional Veal Ossobucco with Parmesan risotto, NT$750 Pan-Fried Goose Liver and corn cake with apple sauce, or NT$300 Linguine alle Vongole with clams and white wine. Beers start at NT$160 and there are plenty of other spirits, including 10 single-malt Scotches, NT$250 cocktails, and 10 types of martinis and martini cocktails. HI House is located by the corner of Hui Jung Road and Shr Jeng North 7th Road, which runs along the back of Mitsukoshi Department Store.