Little Italy 24-7, Sze Wei Street, 87 Da Yah Road Phone: (04) 2221-8581 (Sze Wei) (04) 2320-9778 (Da Yeh) Hours: 12 noon-2 pm, 5 pm-9 pm

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As my companion and I entered Little Italy on a recent Sunday evening, we were greeted by the aroma of basil, oregano and rosemary wafting from the kitchen in the back. Waitresses moved gracefully about, keeping time with the lively Italian folk music, carrying bottles of wine and baskets of bread and steaming plates of pasta. As the restaurant steadily filled with expectant customers, we knew we were in for a delightful dining experience.
In less than two years, Little Italy has become famous among expatriates and locals alike for the freshness and authenticity of its food, its friendly management, and its reasonable prices. In addition to its original branch near Ching Ming 1st Street, there is now a second branch located near Chunghsing University. A third Little Italy will open in Kaohsiung in October. I entered that night not only happily anticipating the good food I was about to eat, but also anxious to meet with the owner, Roger Jeng, and uncover the secrets of his restaurant's rapid success.
As soon as we sat down, a smiling waitress appeared with menus and a wicker basket of bread (baked fresh daily using wild yeast made from Chang Hua grapes). The bilingual menu offers a rich selection of pasta, including spaghetti, penne, fusilli, linguine, and lasagne. Sauces include alfredo, lemon cream, hot garlic, pink clam in garlicy olive oil, bolognese, ragu, and pesto. Most pasta items are priced around NT$190, although a basic spaghetti with meat sauce can be had for only NT$95.
There are also several house specialties, including Stromboli (a large pocket of dough filled with meat, vegetables, sauce and cheese--delicious and very filling), and Walnut Vegetarian Pizza (NT$260). We started our meal with a bottle of imported Italian red wine recommended by our waitress (NT$750).
After some deliberation, I selected the lasagna (NT$250). I was not disappointed. It was delicious and there was plenty of it: layer upon layer of pasta and creamy melted ricotta cheese, oozing tomato sauce laden with onions, garlic, basil and a final layer of melted mozarella cheese on top. My friend had the special of the evening, seafood with lemon cream: fresh clams, octopus, mushrooms and red pepper ladled over a bed of spaghetti (NT$339). The special came with a large salad topped with cherry tomatoes, a tart, frothy and frosted orange beverage, and a dish of vanilla ice cream with chocolate syrup. Our high expectations had been met: it was a wonderful meal.
As we idled over the last few spoonfuls of ice-cream, Roger came over and told us about the time he had spent in America. Of the thirteen years he lived there, the most memorable time was spent working and studying at the Gagliano Family Italian Restaurant in Manhattan. Roger shook his head nostagically as he described the kindness and warmth extended to him from the Gagliano clan, who he said treated him like a member of their own family. It was there that he learned the Gagliano 80-year old secret recipes, the same recipes that are now used at Little Italy. Eighty percent of Little Italy's ingredients are imported from the Gagliano family, who also help to revise Little Italy's menu every six months. Earlier in the evening, I had talked to a group of Canadians on the porch who knew Roger. They recalled a summer evening the year before, soon after arriving in Taiwan, when Roger warmly welcomed them to his restaurant and treated them to a bottle of wine.
When I asked Roger if he remembered the incident, he thought for a moment, trying to remember. Then he simply smiled and said that he would never forget the kindness he was shown during his time abroad, and that he just tried to make foreigners living here in Taiwan feel as welcome as he had in America. As we said good-bye to Roger and left the restaurant, smiling and patting our full bellies, the secret to Little Italy's success became less mysterious: just delicious food and generous hospitality.

By Mark Hammons