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A
taste of French romance at L'affection
By Douglas Habecker Translated
by Ann Lee
Pan Fried Goose Liver with Fig Compote
and Mixed Salad
Pan Roasted Veal Rack wiht Truffle and Wild Mushroom
Sauce
42, DaZhong South Street
(04) 2372-1339
Hours:11:30 am-2 pm, 6-9 pm
Credit cards accepted. 10% service charge. Reservations
recommended.
In a city known for big, flashy restaurants,
one cozy French restaurant has been quietly winning
a very dedicated following by providing everything a
cozy French establishment should--a romantic, intimate
setting, attentive service and, best of all, great cuisine.
L'affection was opened three and a half
years ago by Chris Liu, already well-known as The Landis
Taichung Hotel's Western kitchen executive chef. The
smiling Yunlin native may be diminutive in stature but
his cooking experience and skills are formidable, with
a career that ranges from a culinary education at France's
famous Lenotre school to stints at Tra Vigne in California's
Napa Valley, Les Jardins de L'opera in Paris, and Bangkok's
Dusit Thani.
L'affection is Liu's personal labor
of love. The classy, two-floor restaurant seats about
40 and looks every bit the part, with fine tableware,
black-vested waiters, subdued music and an open kitchen
where Chris and his chefs work. A good number of his
patrons are doctors and L'affection has already seen
a number of succesful marriage proposals.
There are seasonal menus and diners
are allowed to design set dinners (NT$880-1,380)--choosing
from a rich selection of appetizers, soups, salads,
main entrees and desserts--which also come with amuse-bouche,
appertif, bread and coffee or tea. This writer's most
recent experience at L'affection included the Pan Fried
Goose Liver with Fig Compote and Mixed Salad, which
came with a tasty walnut-oil dressing. The sliced liver
had been rolled in flour before being fried to a marvelous
golden-brown for a melt-in-your-mouth treat.
Next was one of Liu's many popular
seafood entrees, the Oven Baked Haddock on a Cauliflower
Puree and Lobster Stock Emulsion. For meat lovers, another
wonderful entree is the Pan Roasted Veal Rack wiht Truffle
and Wild Mushroom Sauce. The veal rack is pan-fried,
then pan-roasted to medium well-done, sliced and served
with a sauce--made with a truffle puree, white wine
and cream--plus mixed mushrooms and shallots.
Diners can delight in dozens of other
equally-savory creations, as well as set lunches (NT$580-1,180),
which feature similar entrees and come with salad, soup,
bread, dessert and coffee or tea. Naturally, there are
plenty of good wines and champagnes, too.
"I'm always thinking about how to highlight the
natural flavors [of ingredients]. Simplicity is most
important...my cuisine is somewhere between modern and
classical French, which is very ri, healthier fare to
cater to popular dining trends. |
