Fleur de Sel: The creme de la creme of dining experiences 114, WuQuan (WuChuan) West 4th St. (04) 2372-6526 (advance reservations requested) Hours¡G2-11 pm (closed Mondays)

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-- By Douglas Habecker Translated by Liu Fang Ru

I frequently get phone calls from friends and complete strangers, inquiring about an exceptional restaurant to take a special someone for a special dinner. Over the past eight months, that very short list has included an establishment that truly helps define fine dining and haute cuisine for Taichung. Fleur de Sel simply has no peers when it comes to providing "la cuisine Francaise" in an exquisite setting.

Head Chef Justine Li works with three other chefs, one of whom, like herself, graduated from the prestigious Lenote French culinary school and the other is a top Cordon Bleu graduate. The dishes they create are true culinary and visual works of art, from the smallest hand-made chocolates to the delicious tenderloin main-course Grille Entrecote de Boeuf aux Ails et Fleur de Sel that I savored one night. This is showcased within a suitably romantic setting that includes soft lighting, French music, discrete attentive wait staff, and the finest in table and glass ware.

I could write pages describing a meal there, including the French Pierval or Chateldon mineral water, goose liver hors d'oeuvres, a delicately-flavored soup made with 10 types of vegetables, a tangy sorbet palate-cleanser, the sinfully-delicious chocolate dessert and plate of chocolates, topped off with the perfect cup of coffee. This was drawn out over two pleasant hours of food and relaxing conversation. Chef Li and her team's French training comes out in their heavy use of imported French and other ingredients, even when local substitutes are available.

Main courses and other dishes can change daily, providing wonderful surprises--put yourself in the hands of the chefs and staff (who explain every dish in detail) and indulge. There are two main dinner sets--the NT$980 "A" Menu, which provides some options for salad/soup/main entree (a special Menu Vegetarienne is the same price). True gourmands can also leave everything to Chef Li and opt for the NT$1,280 "B" Menu-Gourmandise. The a la carte menu also features entrees for NT$580 to NT$880 each, plus desserts, wines, apertifs, coffees, herbal teas, and after-dinner digestifs like cognac or Armagnac (NT$320). Other than dinner, there is an afternoon tea time for NT$320, too.

I don't mind the phone calls but, the next time you're really looking for the creme de la creme of dining experiences, save your NT$1 and head straight to Fleur de Sel.