THE HAKKA COUNTRY TEA COTTAGE 392, TaChin Street (04) 2328-7229; Hours: 7:30-1 am

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       Although it's located in the heart of Taichung, the Hakka Country Tea Cottage really is a rural-feeling retreat for city dwellers. This new place is a spin-off of the popular Meinung Hakka Restaurant and is conveniently located a block away, on the corner of Ta Chin and Tatun 12 streets, within a block of the Kungyi/Tunghsing roads intersection. Customers can choose to sit at indoor or outdoor tables, surrounded by brick-and-wood decor and, at night, warm lighting. A large vegetable garden next door helps add to the tranquil country atmosphere. Not surprisingly, the food menu includes some good Hakka cooking, such as the NT$160 Hakka Pork Chop Rice or Hakka Stir-Fry Rice. There are plenty of other meals, side dishes and snacks, such as the Scallion Chicken Rice and another special Hakka snack--Fried Tofu Skins (NT$50), which taste and look a bit like potato chips. From 7:30 to 10:30 a.m., there are also three NT$100 Western-style breakfasts. The extensive drink menu has the usual variety of hot and cold black and green tea drink, milk teas, fruit teas, coffees and beers. -- By Douglas Habecker (Tr. Sharon Yang)