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COMPASS MAGAZINE, June 1998 - July 1998. VOL. 5 ISSUE 6

Missing the View

By Mia Shanley

I woke up next to a field of rice this morning and thought about writing poetry. It was a breathtaking moment in Taichung County, even though my thoughts never went from pen to paper in a perfect rhyme scheme.
Taiwan has a very subtle way of being poetic - that is the magic behind this country. My fleeting moments always seem to occur near the sea of greenery that pops up here and there throughout the city. It is fall, and that means it is rice harvest time, something which can only be caught in its fullest stage twice a year in Taichung.
Living in Taichung at this time of the year is the most ideal time for any artistic endeavor. Those fields are inspirational.
And here, I will admit, having recently moved away from this city, there is absolutely nothing like this in Taipei. Taichung, with its flashing lights, its commercial combat zone and all, is still an emerald. So if you are traveling through, or if you live here, find the fields while they are green. Seasons tend to change colors within a week in Taichung - all at the hands of the farmers who burn what is left to prepare for the next harvest.
Taichung has a way of trapping people within these mesmerizing limits. Foreigners travel the world and then stake their marks here because they find a booming city that still maintains its tradition and natural beauty.
Ask any of foreigner or local living here why Taichung is the best city on the island and they will give you an impassioned response in no time, with examples that will probably include the weather, the streets, the people. I have several friends who live and die by Taichung. They abhor Taipei. Their reasons for their disgust are the same as the above: the weather, the streets, the people.
People in Taipei, in the same way, refuse to give the opposing city the time of day. But their story isn't as beautiful because their defense mechanisms tend to include dirty words like money and money. In Taipei they ask -- Taichung? How did you end up there? And then they get to the point -- why did you end up there? If they're bold enough, as one colleague was recently: "Taichung? What's down there?" Taipei does not take up the whole island, contrary to popular belief in the north.
I ended up in Taichung one year ago by default and though I am not there now, I am so much better for having started out here. And yes, while I treasure things about the city, I am proud to carry what green poetry I do have.
Taichung people have reason to boast. This jewel does have fantastic weather, nice wide streets and lots of friendly, relaxed people. It is a great place to play and breathe, though the air quality is still sub-standard, but at least the skies are blue.
Taipei is hardly a sad city. It is big, it is energetic, crowded and full of art. It just takes a little more work and heart. People in Taipei like their Starbuck's coffee, and they treasure their anonymity. The pace is faster and there's never a lack of new, interesting things to do, strange people to see. People in Taipei have attitude and they often walk like they have a mission.
Perhaps the poetry in Taipei is hidden under the umbrellas. But I miss the central-land. I miss the sun. I miss the Folk Park. I miss Tea Street, hiking in TaKen Mountains, bai-bais on every corner, driving the wrong way on the wrong side of the street, noisy firecrackers, garbage truck tunes, riding my scooter without my helmet and running red lights, the Tung Hai University campus, campaigners marching through the streets who actually meet their community and an earful of the local dialect. In Taichung, you can still wake up in the morning next to rice fields. In Taipei, I just dream of them.

 

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