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I woke up next to a field of rice this morning and thought
about writing poetry. It was a breathtaking moment in Taichung
County, even though my thoughts never went from pen to paper
in a perfect rhyme scheme.
Taiwan has a very subtle way of being poetic - that is the
magic behind this country. My fleeting moments always seem
to occur near the sea of greenery that pops up here and there
throughout the city. It is fall, and that means it is rice
harvest time, something which can only be caught in its fullest
stage twice a year in Taichung.
Living in Taichung at this time of the year is the most ideal
time for any artistic endeavor. Those fields are inspirational.
And here, I will admit, having recently moved away from this
city, there is absolutely nothing like this in Taipei. Taichung,
with its flashing lights, its commercial combat zone and all,
is still an emerald. So if you are traveling through, or if
you live here, find the fields while they are green. Seasons
tend to change colors within a week in Taichung - all at the
hands of the farmers who burn what is left to prepare for
the next harvest.
Taichung has a way of trapping people within these mesmerizing
limits. Foreigners travel the world and then stake their marks
here because they find a booming city that still maintains
its tradition and natural beauty.
Ask any of foreigner or local living here why Taichung is
the best city on the island and they will give you an impassioned
response in no time, with examples that will probably include
the weather, the streets, the people. I have several friends
who live and die by Taichung. They abhor Taipei. Their reasons
for their disgust are the same as the above: the weather,
the streets, the people.
People in Taipei, in the same way, refuse to give the opposing
city the time of day. But their story isn't as beautiful because
their defense mechanisms tend to include dirty words like
money and money. In Taipei they ask -- Taichung? How did you
end up there? And then they get to the point -- why did you
end up there? If they're bold enough, as one colleague was
recently: "Taichung? What's down there?" Taipei
does not take up the whole island, contrary to popular belief
in the north.
I ended up in Taichung one year ago by default and though
I am not there now, I am so much better for having started
out here. And yes, while I treasure things about the city,
I am proud to carry what green poetry I do have.
Taichung people have reason to boast. This jewel does have
fantastic weather, nice wide streets and lots of friendly,
relaxed people. It is a great place to play and breathe, though
the air quality is still sub-standard, but at least the skies
are blue.
Taipei is hardly a sad city. It is big, it is energetic, crowded
and full of art. It just takes a little more work and heart.
People in Taipei like their Starbuck's coffee, and they treasure
their anonymity. The pace is faster and there's never a lack
of new, interesting things to do, strange people to see. People
in Taipei have attitude and they often walk like they have
a mission.
Perhaps the poetry in Taipei is hidden under the umbrellas.
But I miss the central-land. I miss the sun. I miss the Folk
Park. I miss Tea Street, hiking in TaKen Mountains, bai-bais
on every corner, driving the wrong way on the wrong side of
the street, noisy firecrackers, garbage truck tunes, riding
my scooter without my helmet and running red lights, the Tung
Hai University campus, campaigners marching through the streets
who actually meet their community and an earful of the local
dialect. In Taichung, you can still wake up in the morning
next to rice fields. In Taipei, I just dream of them.
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