Reading Taichung: A book-lovers guide to the city

Words and photos by Paul Adams
Translated by Alicia Yu

The death of the book and decline of reading in general have been forecast by many in recent years. With the rise of computer games, smartphones and the ubiquitous television, you would be forgiven for believing them. However, the book is more resilient than that. Cities the world over are seeing independent bookstores, libraries and book clubs enjoying a resurgence, and increasingly popular e-readers allow instant access to untold literary riches. Evidence of this rise in reading can be found right here on your doorstep.

Taichung has no shortage of bookstores and the major names will be familiar to most readers. The "big three" are undoubtedly Caves, Eslite and Nobel. Caves' main store can be found at 12, GuanQian Road, facing the Calligraphy Greenway near the National Museum Of Natural Science. Its third floor sports a wide selection of English fiction and non-fiction, including literature of all descriptions. However, it is probably best known among Taichung's expat community as the go-to store for English-language teaching books, boasting an entire floor dedicated to this subject and other languages.

Nobel Bookstore, which has a branch on the corner of GongYi and ZhongMing South roads, hosts a similar, if a bit smaller, selection of titles and its range extends further into non-reading items such as stationery, making it perhaps a better destination for students in need of supplies.

Finally, Taichung has branches of Eslite Bookstore, the national chain that, more than any other store, resembles a modern international book seller and has started to win international attention and acclaim. The Eslite store on the third floor of Park Lane by CMP mall, facing Calligraphy Greenway and People's Park (Civic Square), contains not only an excellent selection of contemporary and classic titles but also a well-stocked record store, and plays host to occasional events by touring authors and musicians. Other attractive branches are located on the 10th-11th floors of Chung Yo Department Store's "C" Building, and 11th floor of Shin Kong Mitsukoshi Department Store (see "Shopping" listings for addresses).

Unfortunately, reading can be an expensive habit. While books are relatively cheap in Taiwan--at least as far as paperback fiction is concerned--the costs can still mount up for the addicted reader. Thankfully, Taichung has a new world-class public library at 100, WuQuan South Road, South District. The National Library Of Public Information opened in 2012 and became an instant hit with its unique and eye-catching design. According to the library website, its collection numbers almost 1.5 million Chinese and English titles, covering every subject and genre imaginable.

The internal layout follows a reasonably logical design with separate sections for academic books, non-fiction, fiction, foreign-language titles, children's books and so on. However, what is most striking about the interior is the openness of the space. Although it contains a vast selection of books, periodicals and comics, the building never seems cramped. Windows running along both sides and clever use of space allow it to feel expansive despite its relatively small footprint. Reading desks and sofas dotted around the building make it a haven for students and casual readers alike. Be warned that food and drinks are not allowed inside the library, although the building is home to a Starbucks and Avignon restaurant if you need a food-and-beverage break from browsing.

For readers looking to borrow on the go, last January saw the launch of Taichung's Reading Bar scheme, a government initiative to encourage the public to read more. Around the city many light bulb-shaped weatherproof bookcases have sprouted up, each sporting a selection of books and comics as well as an adjoining bench and reading light. The shape of the bar is based on the idea that reading can brighten up the city as a whole. Reading Bar was inspired by the free library movement which is gathering strength around the globe, particularly inspired by the bucket-shaped free libraries in New York City. In Taichung the list of locations includes Calligraphy Greenway, the main Taichung Railway Station, airport and a host of other spots.

Each station features a variety of books, mostly in Mandarin plus a few English titles, with topics covering everything from fiction to the environment and politics. These books are donated by various sponsors of the project, taken from the second-hand section of the Taichung Public Library and can also be donated by members of the public. The titles on offer at any given time can be hit-or-miss, but there's certainly no reason not to go and have a look. And if anyone feels the choices are lacking, they are welcome to add their own to the collection and encourage others to do so. This could really boost the Reading Bar founder's vision of a growing community literacy project.

Another way to save money on reading is a visit to second-hand stores. A good central choice, unknown to many due to its basement location, is Mollie Used Books at 161, GongYi Road, also just a few meters from People's Park and Calligraphy Greenway. It boasts not only a good selection of cut-price Chinese and English books but also has DVDs and a cafe. For Taiwanese readers--or foreigners looking to improve their Chinese--there are a number of smaller, second-hand stores on SanMin Road, Section 1. These tend to be rather more basic but can offer some real bargains if you have time to hunt. This neighborhood also has some great restaurants and cafes if you grow weary in your search.

A final honourable mention goes to the Annual Charity Book Exchange, which just had its 11th event in March. Every year, the organisers amass a collection of books donated by city residents and sell them for charity at an event that includes live music, food stalls, improv shows, children's entertainment and more. The exchange is sponsored by Frog Restaurant, which ensures that a portion of the money raised from beer sales also joins the book revenue being donated to local children's charities. Due to the constantly changing nature of the book business--primarily due to the growing popularity of e-readers--the book exchange is continually evolving to keep pace with the times, ensuring that it will remain a popular event on Taichung's calendar for years to come.