Alpine beauty and adventure on the road to Wuling Farm

Words and photos by Daniel White Translated by Angela Cheng
The content is developed jointly by Industrial Development & Investment Promotion
Committee of Taichung City, FM 89.1 Sunny Radio and Compass Magazine.

Friday morning was dawning and a long weekend lay before me. Although hundreds were flocking south towards Spring Scream, my tastes were leading me to more rustic and scenic locales.

With my scooter packed and my MP3 player fully charged I began my journey over the mountains to Wuling Farm. Traveling south on Provincial Highway No. 3, I passed through Caotun where I switched onto Rt. 14 and began heading east. Driving though Puli and into Renai township, I stopped for a fill-up at what I would discover to be the last gas station for quite some time (if you have less than half a tank, it's a good idea to fill up here) and from there I began my ascent to the mountains via the No. 14 "jia" highway spur.

The drive into the mountains was amazing. The wild and lush vegetation, the towering spires of rock jutting out into the sky--it was all so sublime and majestic. I climbed through this dizzying beauty for several hours until I found myself driving through the clouds, which sounds more romantic than it really is. Surrounded by mist, I suddenly found my range of vision cut to as little as 10 meters at points. The beauty around me was swallowed up in a wall of grey that made even the blaring sound of my music seem quiet and distant. I soon began to find comfort in the solitude, however unnerving it was.

That's when the hail started. I didn't know that it hailed in Taiwan, but it does, and it hails hard. Suddenly, my trip became a battle with Mother Nature herself. I struggled to descend from Kunyang Mountain without losing control of my scooter, all the time being pelted with shards of ice. When the hail finally gave way to a soft mountain rain, I knew I had won. I had survived nature's assault and I had never felt so alive.

After I took a left turn onto the Highway No. 8, the last leg of my journey was fraught with landslides caused by the storm that I had just weathered. It would seem that nature had one more trick up her sleeve. Fortunately the landslides were small, did not cause any significant delays and, at about 2:20 p.m., I found myself at the visitor gates to Wuling Farm.

Founded in 1963, Wuling began as a project to give military veterans a place to work and live. In its current iteration, the farm is used for eco-tourism and as a preserve for several animal and plant species indigenous to the area. The orchards of the farm offer stunning panoramas that vary according to the time of year that you visit. In spring, the cherry and apple blossoms present a picturesque scene of white and pink that covers the mountains around the farm. Maple trees dot the forested landscape as well, and I've been told they turn a brilliant orange and red during the fall.

Walking along the many trails and paths in Wuling Farm, there is ample opportunity to catch a plethora of wild birds and butterflies on camera, although the light rain during my visit prevented me from seeing any butterflies. I was fortunate enough to photograph a few birds which were kind enough to stay still for a picture. The babbling brooks and streams are also home to the rare Formosan Landlocked Salmon, but you'll have an easier time viewing them in the Taiwan Salmon Eco Center, which also provides visitors with information on the history and statistics of the species.

For those with a penchant for more active pastimes, Wuling Farm offers four different hiking trails up into the mountains and, with elevations over three kilometers, they're sure to work your calves. If you want to hike, but don't want to invest quite as much energy or time, you can walk along the Taoshan (Peach Mt.) Waterfall Trail that sits at a slightly more modest elevation of 2,500 meters.

Though there are several hotels, guesthouses and hostels for travelers, it's best to book early as they fill up quickly on weekends. For more information, you can call the Administration Center at (04) 2590-1257. From Taichung, staying overnight is necessary if you want to spend any time enjoying the farm, as the trip up takes over five hours. If you can stay a second night, an extra day of hiking and relaxing in the fresh mountain air is quite enjoyable and a refreshing change from urban life.