Taichung Park: Where time passes slowly

Words and photos by Courtney Donovan Smith Translated by Angel Pu
The content is developed jointly by Industrial Development & Investment Promotion
Committee of Taichung City, FM 89.1 Sunny Radio and Compass Magazine.

Taichung Park is the heart of Taichung, geographically, historically and symbolically. Historically, it is first noted as the approximate site of a Qing dynasty garrison used to put down rebellions in 1721, not long after the founding of Taichung (then "Dadun", or "great mound") in 1705. The area received more attention after Taiwan was designated a full Chinese province and the new governor obtained permission to move the capital here. Those plans came undone when the Japanese took over. The new rulers designed the city's current layout (based on Kyoto) and renamed it "Taichung" ("Taichu" in Japanese). The only thing they retained from the Qing dynasty was the planned North Gate, which they moved into their newly-constructed park in 1903.

　
Left: Taichung Park's Sun Moon Lake was fashioned from a natural pond and wetlands.
Right: Time passes slowly in Taichung Park and your modern-day experiences here echo those of generations past.

The park was selected as the site to commemorate the compietion of the Western Railway Line in 1908, and the Lake Heart Pavilion was built there as a rest area for the Japanese crown prince. Since then this pavilion has been the city's most recognizable symbol. Taichung Park has seen changes since then, with memorials reflecting the eras in which they were erected, even as the park's essence has remained unchanged. Generation after generation has experienced personal, defining moments here, as have countless visitors.

　
Left: This recent addition was built to celebrate the 2003 Year of the Goat Lantern Festival.
Right: Another historical building from 1888 can be seen here.

A beautiful oasis in the heart of the city's older downtown, the park is an excellent place to explore. The hills, paths and meandering waterways tug at one's curiosity and it seems there is always something new to find, no matter how many times you've already been there. Gentle hikes and pleasant strolls offer something for scampering children, young lovers meandering in the magical light, and strolling senior citizens--as it always has.

　
Left: Try exploring the waterways by rowboat, a fun and healthy option costing NT$200 per hour.
Right: The Qing dynasty-era North Gate is all that remains of grand plans to make Taichung Taiwan's capital city.

One popular and healthy way to explore the waterways is by rowboat. On a sunny day you'll glide by ducks and turtles sunning themselves on the water's surface. Feeding the ducks, pigeons and squirrels seems to be popular, though probably not advisable. Parents and dog-walkers will appreciate the wide-open spaces, and smaller children will enjoy the playground. Another area is dominated by older men playing Chinese chess.