YiZhong Street Commercial District: Where youth, food, history and shopping mix

By Tammy Huang
Translated by Naomi Lai

If you spent any of your student years in Taichung, you are almost certainly familiar with the commercial district around YiZhong Street, a long-standing dining and shopping hub for the city's youth and today a leading destination for residents and tourists alike.

Years ago, there were only a handful of stores and shops around National Taichung First Senior High School, from which the street takes its name. However, as major cram schools occupied nearby buildings, this blossomed into a commercial district that today spreads out across YiZhong, ZunXian and YuCai streets, YuCai North Road, YuCai South Street, and TaiPing and SanMin roads. With the development of the YiZhong Ximending Area and YiZhong International Commercial Area, this district has expanded even further onto JinNan Street.

In recent years, Taichung City Government has taken a more proactive approach toward the development of commercial districts, renovating locations like the YiZhong neighborhood with pedestrian brick walkways and more obvious street and store signs to assist first-time visitors.

The adjacent high school was built in 1915, the fourth year of the Japanese Taisho period, and many Western-style buildings from this era remain. This means that nostalgic visitors can enjoy walks through this area, following almost a century's worth of memories to discover classic and modern foods, fused into a culinary paradise. This also makes the YiZhong area one of Taichung's most popular destinations for experiencing central Taiwan food culture, not to mention plenty of shopping.

Start at ShuangShi Road and visit the tranquil Confucius Temple (30, ShuangShi Rd, Sec 2; tel. 04-2233-2264), open 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. except for Mondays. You can continue a lazy afternoon walk at the adjacent Martyr's Shrine, passing through the classic white gateway at the ShuangShi/LiXing roads intersection. The shrine was once a Japanese Shinto shrine. When the Japanese colonial period ended, it was renovated into a Qing palace-style structure. Continuing north on TaiPing Road, then turning left on DianTai Street, will lead you to the Taichung Broadcasting Studio (1, DianTai St), open from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. This Western-style structure was built in 1935, during the Showa period's 10th year, as an extension of the Japanese government's broadcasting network. Its classic appearance and the serene beauty of its surroundings make it a popular choice for wedding photos. Inside you can explore the free displays of historical documents and artifacts and, if you get tired, relax in the Italian Kitchen eatery on the first floor, immersing in the ambiance of a distant past.

Walking back to ShuangShi Road, crossing YuCai Street, you will see the Taichung Mayor's Mansion (125, ShuangShi Rd, Sec 1), which originally belonged to Japanese ophthalmologist Mr. Miyahara. After World War II, it was turned over to the city government and used as the mayor's home. Its mixture of Baroque and Modern architectural styles is distinctive. While no longer used by the mayor, it has been converted for cultural events usage. This first floor has the Sun Fantasy Restaurant (tel. 04-2223-3723), offering set meals from NT$100 to NT$500 between 11 a.m. and 9:30 p.m. Next to the restaurant are some fine-arts displays.

After all this wandering around, it's time to enter YiZhong district's yummy maze and treat your stomach to some delightful snacks. Turning left from YuCai Street onto ZunXian Street, you'll find food stalls on your left and right. The "Japanese Tempura" stall in front of 33, YuCai South Street sells all kinds of Japanese tempura on a stick. Favorites include the fried banana (NT$15) and fried cheese (NT$25), both wondrous creations that offer mouthfuls of tantalizing flavors and textures. The stall is open 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. and closed every other Tuesday.

If rice is your thing, the "Tao Zhuan" stall (tel. 0926-688-896) nearby will definitely satisfy. Here you'll find roasted rice balls and barbecued sesame cakes (NT$40-45). The rice is cooked to perfect softness and the different added ingredients provide a great variety of flavors. This place opens at 11 a.m. (except Mondays) and continues until it sells out.

The "Half-Moon Pancake" is also located nearby at 31, YuCai Street (tel. 04-3608-0300, 0915-722-388). Its pancakes come in two styles--pan-fried or stir-fried--and flavors include pork and beef (NT$30-40). Your nose gets treated to the aromatic smells of these snacks before the first bite, as the ingredients are stir-fried before being folded into a nutritious, tasty package. It's open 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. (except Mondays), or until sold out.

Turn right at the Shi Li Building on YiZhong Street and you will come to the "Sausage King" (41, YiZhong St; tel. 04-2225-8068, 0921-762-090), specializing in one of Taiwan's most beloved snacks--a small sausage in a large sausage (NT$30 for one, NT$50 for two). These sausages are char-grilled for a delicious smoky scent. Black pepper or garlic sausages are then packed into a sticky rice sausage and made into a hotdog-looking snack. With every bite, you get a lively mix of all the sausages and other ingredients, and the more you chew the more you'll understand the popularity of this combo snack. This place is opening 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. or until sold out (closed Mondays).

Where there is great food, there is always a crowd. At "Hit Cookie Home" (83, YiZhong St; tel. 04-2225-1135) you need to get in line just to get a number tag for your order, so there is no question about its popularity. This handmade pancake shop uses two layers of pancake to create differences in texture. One layer is beaten up to fold air into the pancake, and then placed on another layer of pancake fried with eggs. Several fillings, such as the favorite cheese and tuna, can then be wrapped in the pancakes. What keeps customers coming back for more is the pancakes' changing textures and varied filling flavors. Prices range from NT$25 to NT$45, depending on flavor, at this place, open 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.
Even if you don't know where the "YiZhong Ba Liang Grilled Fried Chicken" eatery is, you can probably locate it by scent alone. The thick, smoky aroma is magic here. Situated directly in front of the 7-Eleven on YiZhong Street (near Shui Li Building), it offers Grilled Fried Chicken (NT$50) that is deep fried, grilled, covered in a special homemade sauce and then sprayed with lemon juice to add a zesty freshness. The chicken's crispy crust, tender meat and special sauces will explode your mouth with pleasurable delight in an experience you certainly won't forget. And don't forget the size, either--bigger than your face. Other choices include Pepper and Salt Fried Chicken (NT$45). Opening hours are 11 a.m. to 11:30 p.m.

The YiZhong Street Commercial District is like one big kitchen for students, but there's much more to it than food stalls and historic buildings. This area is practically a miniature version of Tokyo's Shibuya with its packed assortment of shops, many tiny in size, selling low-priced but trendy clothing, fashion accessories, glasses, jewelry and other items, not to mention 24-hour bookstores and other businesses. Even though a day or night here means that there's no need to worry about empty your purse or wallet, definitely remember to come with an empty stomach.