RIDE 'Is there really anywhere to here?'

By Todd Latta Translated by Ann Lee

It's a question often heard around the island, usually from foreign business travelers and typically directed at those few bicycle enthusiasts who are "brave enough" to ride in Taiwan. Curious foreigners and local Taiwanese alike are often unaware of the biking gems hidden outside the cramped streets, looming factories, and bustle of everyday traffic. Those who know often tell stories of awesome routes through steep canyons, crushing climbs, and descents so long that necks cramp and eyes bleed. Well, maybe not actually bleed, but once a regular rider tries to explain riding in Taiwan, exaggeration can be the only way to make a point.

Surrounded by three low mountain ranges, the Taichung area offers a great variety of riding

However, their message is clear: There are rides in Taiwan worthy of any rider's praise. These aren't easy park rides, unless you are on the flat routes provided by local governments, such as the Taya-Tanzi or Fengyuan-Dongshi bike paths. These flat, overcrowded strips of sizzling blacktop are great for a tandem spin with the kids, followed by squid-on-a-stick and an iced tea but, for a more challenging ride, get out of the city.

Taiwan is filled with great rides ranging from one-hour quick loops to epic climbs and A-to-B traverses through bamboo forests and rolling valleys. Along the west coast, from north to south, the flat plains that are home to most of Taiwan's population start to climb 10 to 50 kilometers from the coast and keep climbing to the top of the Central Mountain Range. Thankfully, Jade Mountain (3,995 meters) cannot be driven or ridden, but a well-developed web of mountain roads and trails twist their way up, around, over, in and amongst most of Taiwan's mountains. These roads, although not ideal for hardcore off-road mountain bikers, provide for some of the most challenging and scenic riding anyone could wish for, with as diverse a landscape as available anywhere ride-able.

Even in Taichung city the availability of great terrain is surprising. Most people are surprised by the quick entry into the relative solitude of lush jungle and fantastic scenery a bicycle offers. Pedaling along cluttered apartments, screaming scooters and bustling shops, regulars know that it only takes a few strategic turns and a quick left after a bridge before they're suddenly gearing down to a quick, steep entry into narrow mountain roads, canyons, overhanging bamboo and betelnut groves.

Surrounded by three low mountain ranges, the Taichung area offers a great variety of riding: BaGua Mountain in the south, DaDu Mountain in the west, and the Fengyuan/Dakeng/Taiping Range to the north/northeast.

DaDu rises above Tunghai University and the Taichung Industrial Park, offering nice descents down the backside towards Longjin township and Shalu town, while the north slopes have decent XC (Cross Country) mountain biking and dirt-jumping down to the WuR (Wu-er) area. A little further out, BaGua is littered with steep mountain roads and paths from Changhua all the way to Nantou. Both north and south sides can be enjoyed on road and mountain bikes.

Taichung city's Dakeng Scenic Area may be the most popular amongst the early-morning riders, due to its proximity to central Taichung. A 15-minute jaunt through town leads to over 10 different routes starting from Dakeng, just after the traffic circle; Taiping, by the International Golf Course; Fengyuan, en route to the Fengyuan Golf Course; and many of the small eastbound roads between (see blue roads on Map). Exploring these areas can be fun and there are a number of websites documenting (in Chinese and English) rides around Taiwan. A group of GPS-toting expats recently created the blog: www.centraltaiwanvelo.com/blog, which offers GPS coordinates, photos, narratives and directions to many two-hour rides within 20 minutes of TaiZhongGang (Taichung Harbor) Road (i.e. Big Loop, [65km], Little Bastard [1], Church Hill [2], Billy's Lie [3), Lebanon Camp [4], Circle Hill [5], Lincoln [6], and Golf Course Hill [7] ). You can also find info on longer and more ominous routes like the Great Big Loop (150km), HeHuan Mountain (in a day), Alishan backwards (two days/300+km) or Big Snow Mountain.

Besides the Central Taiwan Velo blog, there are a lot of clubs and teams scattered around Taiwan with their own sites. This list only scratches the surfaces of websites appealing to the cyclist and most have good links to check out as well.

www.formosanfattire.com- MTB focus with great list of rides and photos
www.stepoutintaiwan.com - Awesome adventures in the Puli area
www.cycling.com.tw - Road bike oriented in Central Taiwan
www.cool-cycling.com - Road bike site for the members of the 136 Team in Taichung
www.wan-li.idv.tw/html/page.htm - Great GPS resource based in Miaoli County
www.mtb.tw - Obviously MTB in Taiwan
www.bikeman.org - A great resource covering the race scene and product reviews
www.markchoo.com.tw - Ride GPS data and details
www.tmosaic.blogspot.com - Very nice club site for the T-Mosaic Shop

There is also a growing assortment of skilled bike mechanics and shops. Besides the many Giant, Fuji and Merida shops found in Taichung (and every other Taiwan city), the following are shops with especially great quality or service:

F.P Bicycle Store: Mid-range products, with excellent mechanical skills and a focus on Merida and Specialized brands (NT$5,000-NT$100,000). Beitun District; (04) 2241-5645.

T-Mosaic: Mostly high-end, exclusive, imported road/race bikes with some XC mountain bikes (NT$50,000 and up). 199, XiangShang Rd, Sec 2; (04) 2381-4322; (tmosaic.blogspot.com)

Three Peaks: Mostly mountain bikes--Downhill (DH), Cross Country (XC) and Dirt Jumping, with a focus on Element house brand and imported US brand Cannondale (NT$15,000+). 222, JinXian 8th Rd; (04) 2436-8842; www.threepeaks.com.tw; www.elementbike.com

Bike Dome: Good skills, large shop filled with everything from entry-level to top-end. MTB and Road bikes (NT$8,000+); (04) 2706-9862

These shops can definitely provide for all levels of bikers and bikes, and help you choose a bike based on your interests for road biking, mountain biking, etc. Just remember, mountain bikers will often find themselves on the road, making full-on downhill (DH), free-ride and dirt-jump bikes cumbersome. However, the safety and stability of a cross-country mountain bike might be comforting, given the terrain and lightning-fast blue trucks shooting around country bends.

If you don't know whether to buy a mountain or road bike, I would suggest starting with a 9- or 10-speed XC MTB, with front suspension and mid-width (26-inch, 1.50-1.95) tires in a semi-slick or light tread. When on a budget, shoot for a lighter frame over top-end components and choose a saddle that fits. Other features depend on budget, but moving into lockout front suspension and lighter components can do a lot for comfort and enjoyment.

Remember to always be aware, because motorists really don't care about bikers. Cyclists don't enjoy a lot respect, despite being good entertainment for a carload of weekend warriors. No amount of swearing and waving your fist (or finger) will change that, so it is strongly suggested to keep right, wear a helmet, gloves, glasses, reflectors, and flashers. Expect all cars, dogs, pedestrians and scooters to cut in front of you and be alert at all times. Likewise, the mountain roads are steep with a lot of hairpins and switchbacks, so keep your brake cables tight, pads serviced, tires in good condition and inflated to the proper PSI, and a couple fingers securely positioned on the levers when descending. Maybe the most important thing to remember is that traffic lights are for your reference only, so fully expect the other guy to run a red regardless of your giving him the hairy eyeball. Paying attention and remembering where you are will help prevent confrontations and discouragement, and make your ride more enjoyable and injury-free.

Finally, despite the availability of great riding in Taiwan, the island definitely has some environmental issues. The most obvious issue is pollution, both in air quality and the careless dumping of waste, so expect to see appliances, beds, couches and general trash littering your ride. The only way these polluted areas will be cleaned and restored is through education and activism. If you feel inclined to get active or understand more about wildlife/nature preservation efforts in Taiwan, visit the Society for Wildlife and Nature (SWAN) (www.swan.org.tw) or The Society of Wilderness (www.sow.org.tw) websites.

So, whether you're already a cycling enthusiast or just interested, don't let city life and negative expectations discourage your efforts to get out of the city and discover the reason early Portuguese explorers called this place "Formosa Ilha", or "the Beautiful Island".