River
Tracing: The Coolest Way To Get Up River
By
Antonio Graceffo Translated by Sheng Chen
If
you've ever been to an amusement park and
ridden down a water ride, you can imagine
how much fun it would be to ride down a
big waterfall. But, have you ever considered
going up a waterfall?
In
river tracing, you not only climb up the
waterfalls, but you climb up and over every
rock in the river, tracing the waterway
to its source. Fighting against the current,
advancing up the river, and clambering
over boulders is a great workout and a
challenge. Each time you overcome an obstacle,
you'll feel a real sense of accomplishment.
River
tracing started 40 years ago in Italy,
when mountaineers hit on a new way to reach
inaccessible peaks in the Alps. The sport
came to Taiwan in the early 1980s.
Once
you've donned your equipment--swimsuit,
life jacket, helmet, kneepads, rubber boots,
and a rappelling harness--it's time to
get wet. The best way to get into a cold
river is to simply jump in. Your going
to get soaked from head to toe, anyway,
so you might as well enjoy the rush of
sudden immersion.
The
water will be cold no matter what time
of year you go. Most people prefer to go
in summer, when the air is hot. But diehards
go year round, sometimes wearing wetsuits
for warmth.
The
boots are the most impressive piece of
equipment. They can grip anything. You'll
see a slime-covered rock, and think "There's
no way I can stand on that." But as
soon as you put your boot on it, you'll
have traction.
Good
river-tracing boots can be purchased for
less than NT$1,000. The traditional ones
look like the boots worn for scuba diving;
the newer boots have the same rubberized
bottoms, but look more like hiking boots.
Even
if you dislike package tours, you won't
be able to go river tracing without support.
Fortunately, Taiwan has some excellent
guides, who you can contact through river
tracing clubs (see box below). It's best
to let your guides pick the route: They
are familiar with the individual personality
of the river, and know where the dangers
lie.
Because
Taiwan has so many streams and creeks,
it's not necessary to drive far to go river
tracing. Each stream is different: In Taroko
Gorge you'll be walking over and around
giant boulders; in Wulai you'll be climbing
more waterfalls. River tracing can be a
day trip, or you can carry trekking gear
and sleep out overnight.
Climbing
up a waterfall is no different to other
types of climbing. You simply reach inside
the falls, and look for foot and hand holds.
You shouldn't put your hips as close to
the wall as you would in normal climbing,
however, because then your head would go
under water.
The
scenery is incredible. There are small
rapids, waterfalls, and green pools. The
sides of the river are often rocky cliffs,
ten or more meters high. Hikers often look
down on rapids from above. But river tracers
meet them head on.
Walking in a stream, your scent and footsteps
are masked from animal detection. You may be
able to sneak up on animals coming to drink.
At the very least you'll be able to see beautiful
mosses, flowers and trees.
Some
people like whitewater rafting or kayaking.
But the boat is a barrier. To truly appreciate
the river, you have to live it, be part
of it. In river tracing, you live and breathe
with the river.
For
more information, contact the Taipei River
Tracing Club (02-2594-2108), the Changhua
River Tracing Club (04-724-0783), or the
Southern River Tracing Club (06-237-4804).
To see more Taiwan river-tracing photos,
go to www.rivertracing.com (English) or
www.abovesault.idv.tw (in Chinese). |