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COMPASS
MAGAZINE, July 2001. VOL. 8 ISSUE 7
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EXPLORING
THE OLD HEART OF TAICHUNG ON FOOT: A
Walking Tour of Taichung's Central District
(CONTINUED)
by Douglas Habecker
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The streets in this area are full of interesting little shops which
seem to focus on several main themesjewelry, watches, shoes,
clothing and bread. Heading down Chung Cheng Road on the right side,
you will come to what is certainly one of the oldest and best-known
restaurants in the area, Ching Yuan Chun, which has been
in business for 53 years and specializes in Zhejiang cuisine, serving
great meat-filled buns, soups, noodles, seafood, snacks and main
courses like drunken chicken. The clean, pleasant interior
truly looks like classic eateries that one can still see in China
but rarely any more in Taiwan. Incongruously, this place is wedged
between two more recent neighbors, a Toronto Café
and NET clothing store. Impossible to miss on the other side
of the road is the Eslite Lungshing store complex, a department
store-like building which, among many other things, contains a large
eighth-floor Eslite book store and a second-floor Café Piazza,
a sizeable, attractive café that serves snacks, meals and
European-style coffees.
| At the
right-side KFC, turn right onto Chikuang Street which is undergoing
its pedestrian-only makeover. In quick progression on the left-hand
side is a US GNC vitamins and health supplements store, the
Shiy Mei Zai Watch Store and a Watsons personal
products store. Shiy Mei Zai is another vintage establishment,
having been in business since 1925, and is a reputable city
dealer for high-end watch brands like Rolex, Bulgari, Baume
& Mercier, Longines and Piaget. Continue on Chikuang Street
through the next intersection |
| with
Chungshan Road and walk down to a truly unique-looking establishment,
Firefly Colony (68, Chikuang St.; open 10:30-12:30 a.m.).
Around since 1994, Firefly is a large teahouse/restaurant housed
in a very large old wooden building. Inside, wooden tables and
seats are situated in all kinds of nooks and crannies, including
a large traditional boat and balcony areas upstairs, closer
to the high ceiling rafters. The place is liberally decorated
with old signs and mementos and is |

Firefly Colony
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| dimly-lit,
giving off a cozy, nostalgic feeling. A laminated English menu
is available and includes meals like curry chicken and rice,
beef oyster sauce and rice, and Taiwanese noodles, all for reasonable
prices. There are also iced and hot tea drinks and Chinese and
Western snacks. |
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Electronics
Street
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Just
a little further up Chikuang Street, you will see one of the
entrances to the Electronics Street shopping area on
the left. Turning in there will take you into a one-block, pedestrian-only
arearecently beautifiedcontaining over 60 shops
selling all sorts of computer-related hardware, software, parts,
games, electronics and audio-visual equipment. This shopping
area became famous for its stereo component stores from 1976
on |
| and,
a decade later, metamorphosed into a computer center. Through
July 31, a series of special promotional events (see Whats
On section) are taking place on the street, including
musical performances and raffle prize giveaways. |
Following the alley from the Chikuang Street entrance straight
through the block takes you to Luchuan West Street, bordering the
Luchuan Canal. Turn left and stroll along either side of the canal,
which is now a pleasant experience, thanks to new walkways, bridges,
landscaping and decorative touches, including dozens of tile markers
with black-and-white photo images of the area many decades ago.
This entire area, between the canal and vintage European-style train
station, is overflowing with sounds and smellsfrom a dozen
types of local cooking to Western perfumescoming from all
manner of small establishments. It is also a major haven for English
cram schools, Internet cafes and video-game arcades, as well as
the citys main hub for local and inter-city bus transportation.
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Walking
along the canal and continuing across Chung Cheng Road will
bring you to the main entrance plaza to another large shopping
and entertainment complex, First Square. Built over
a decade ago over the site of the citys traditional
First Market, this slightly
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| seedy-looking
building has become a major city hang-out for the young and
restless, who can choose from numerous resident KTVs, MTVs,
pool halls, video game arcades, eateries and hundreds of small
shops, selling clothing, electronics and enough fashion accessories
to keep any teeny-bopper happy. The building is also home to
the First Square cinema complex. |
First
Square
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With that, your walking tour is just about over. For an exotic
side-trip to the traditional Chienkuo Market, head up Chung
Cheng Road, turn left at the train station and continue about a
block on Shuangshih Road to the crowded market area, which is particularly
picturesque in the early mornings. Adjacent alleys are full of machinery
and tool vendorsa handymans heaven. Just to the left
of the train station terminal, a pedestrian underpass also leads
to 20th Warehouse Art Gallery, a series of old railroad warehouses
just across the tracks which have been converted into a nice gallery,
hosting regular exhibits, and artist studios.
| Perhaps
the best way to unwind after a long walk and contemplate ones
experiences is to head to Central Districts most dominant
structure, opposite the train station. This white skyscraper
now houses the eTower computer/electronics mall on floors
one and two and what remains of Golden Plaza Department Store
on the floors above. For the arguably best view in the entire
city, head up the buildings needle-like tower to the UFO
Revolving Restaurant (22F, 105, Chienkuo Rd.; open 11:30
a.m.-12 midnight, open to 1 a.m. Fri./Sat.). Day or night, one
can take in the entire city in the 105 minutes that a complete
360-degree revolution takes, while enjoying a good Western meal
or drink and upscale ambiance. |
E-Tower
Building
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Remember that this tour is just basic exploration of Central District.
In any direction, further interesting discoveries and experiences
await anyone wanting to venture further into the still-beating heart
of old Taichung.

Click on the map above for
a larger version
with details of Lakeside's layout.
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