Mamm Goz

By Cat Thomas Translated by Ann Lee

12, Lane 112, AnHe Rd, Sec 1

Mamm Goz is an authentic Bretagne bistro in a quiet lane off An-he Road. Since it opened last September, this slice of Bretagne in Taipei has gained such a good reputation that it has even been written up in Ouest-France, one of France's larger dailies. The secret is surprisingly simple. Mamm Goz ("grandmother" in the Bretagne dialect) uses traditional methods. The preparation and ingredients, most specially imported, are exactly as you would find in a top-end galletterie in Bretagne.

A gallete is a thick, savoury crepe made with buckwheat and served with generous fillings. Very traditional gallettes, such as La Gargantua, ham, egg, emmental cheese, onions, mushrooms and a heavenly homemade tomato sauce (NT$380), sit alongside the vegetarian's dream La Queen Anne, an outrageously good combination of goat's cheese, honey and nuts (NT$420). Specialty meats such as French Black Sausage and Lardons tempt meat lovers. Keep an eye out for daily specials, especially the stronger tasting Andouille, a potent ham with mustard. The set menus offer particularly good value (NT$250-400).

Try to leave room for a crepe at the end of your meal. They range from the simple La Triskell with butter and sugar (NT$80) to La King Arthur with bananas and homemade chocolate sauce flambeed with rum (NT$260).

Mamm Goz has a warm atmosphere helped along with Celtic knickknacks, such as a traditional straw hat, which hangs on the wall as though a young French maid has just returned home. The wooden decking at the front allows you to enjoy that quintessential French pastime -- watching the world meander by. Mamm Goz also manages to capture the bistro feel with its large collection of imported Bretagne beverages (all exclusive to Mamm Goz). This includes Bretagne ciders and beers, with a level of sweetness and strength to suit all palettes and times of day, plus Couchen, a honey liquor (mead), as well as Bretagne Whisky. Stephane, the personable owner, is always happy to chat to the customers in French, Chinese or English. Mamm Goz is perfect for that romantic date, or an intimate gathering of good friends, excellent food and drinks a la Bretagne.