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the italian job 6-2, LiShui Street

--By Cat Thomas, translated by Shanzi Chen

It's hard to pinpoint the secret of "the italian job's" (sic) appeal. It could be so many things -- the warm welcome, the good service, the relaxed atmosphere, the decor or the setup. Most importantly, their food is fantastic. One of the chefs describes how he was brought up in an Italian neighbourhood. While his friends watched hockey (which he wasn't into) he would follow the Italian mums around the kitchen as they prepared food, watching and learning. At age 12 he started cooking on his own. This homespun skill, combined with quality ingredients imported from Italy, has certainly paid off. The Antipasto (NT$240/290), a platter of pecorino romano, goat cheese, a selection of olives, fresh quartered tomatoes, and julienned sun-dried tomatoes, is simply divine. Don't miss out on the Parmesan Chicken Roll (NT$290): flattened chicken breast stuffed with proscuitto and mozzarella, served with either their house special parmesan sauce or marinara sauce. Looking for a relaxed, but classy meal? "the italian job" is your venue. Reservations are advised.