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TAIWAN FUN MAGAZINE,
October 2003.
Cover
Story :
Into
The Wild: Hiking In Taiwan's High Mountains
By
Steven Crook
Translated by
Photos by Richard Matheson |
|
You
don't have to get out of your car to enjoy Taiwan's
mountains. The cross-island highways provide tremendous
views of the Central Mountain Range.
But
these roads have brought development and pollution
to many areas. To get away from humanity's garbage,
and properly appreciate how unspoiled and untamed
much of Taiwan remains, one has to shoulder a backpack
full of equipment and supplies, and walk--for a day
or more--into the wilderness. It's easy to hike for
a week without meeting another soul.
|
In
the high mountains, apart from the occasional
gurgle of running water and the rustle of leaves
in the wind, there is almost never a sound.
At night, you may hear the barks and yaps of
monkeys, deer, and other animals. But no cars,
no motorcycles, and no people.
High-mountain
hiking is, of course, physically strenuous,
and careful preparations have to be made if
you're to enjoy yourself. |
Unguided
and even solo treks are possible, but those without
much experience should consult a hiking association
about guides, routes, and mountain permits. Hiking
clubs can be found in every city and county, and can
be contacted through sports-equipment stores.
GETTING
THE RIGHT GEAR
If
you don't already have a pair, hiking boots may well
be the most costly item on your shopping list. A decent
two-man waterproof tent can be had for less than NT$5000.
Many essentials, such as camping stoves and sleeping
mats, can be found at hypermarkets.
In
addition to the obvious (sleeping bag, cooking
utensils, flashlight, food and water, a change
of clothes, raincoat, First Aid kit, a Swiss
Army knife, map and compass, toilet paper),
there are minor articles which can prove very
useful: An umbrella; plastic sandals; and duct
tape (for repairs).
Several
layers of thin clothing are preferable to a
few bulky garments. Always change out of sweat-drenched
clothes before night falls. Take a cheap pair
of cotton gloves, and a small towel. |
|
Staying
hydrated and nourished is as important as keeping
dry and warm. Avoid canned foods for weight reasons.
Dried products such as instant noodles and soups are
ideal. Bread, crackers, granola, nuts, cookies, and
chocolate are all worth bringing. Take some instant
coffee, tea bags and powdered milk; boil all water
collected from streams.
HEALTH
HAZARDS
Snakes
are extremely rare above 2,000 meters. Mosquitoes
are not a problem in the high mountains. Rodents can
be found above 3,000 meters; they don't attack humans,
but they will nibble at food left outside overnight.
|
Many
first-time high-mountain hikers feel some ill
effects because of the high altitude. Some experience
nothing more than a mild shortness of breath,
while others suffer persistent headaches, nausea,
and a loss of appetite.
The
most serious danger is High Altitude Pulmonary
Edema (HAPE). The symptoms are similar to pneumonia:
Fluid collects in the victim's lungs, causing
breathing difficulties, a cough, and occasionally
death. |
Whether
you'll suffer from altitude sickness, and how severe
it will be, depends on how high you go, how fast you
ascend, and how hard you are exerting yourself. Don't
push yourself too hard on the first day, and drink
plenty of fluids.
Remember
that severe sunburn happens more easily at higher
elevations. Use plenty of sunscreen and wear sunglasses.
WHEN
AND WHERE
The
further north one goes, the colder the winters, and
the greater the chance of rain or snow.
Shei-pa
National Park, which straddles the counties of
Miaoli, Hsinchu and Taichung, is so named because
it includes both Snow Mountain (Taiwan's second
tallest peak at 3,884 meters), and Dabajianshan,
an imposing 3,492-meter-high massif. According
to the authorities, the best periods for hiking
in the park are October to December and March
to April. In winter, snow and ice sometimes blocks
trails; heavy showers are common in April and
May, and in summer typhoons are a threat. |
|
Yushan,
Taiwan's highest peak at 3,952 meters, remains the
nation's No. 1 high-mountain hiking destination. Because
of its location in the southern half of the island,
between October and April conditions around the mountain
are almost always dry and clear.
Because
of Yushan's popularity, permits and youth hostel-style
accommodation at Paiyun Villa have to be arranged
well in advance, especially if you plan to arrive
on a weekend or holiday.
|
Fortunately,
there are many other mountains and routes which
are just as challenging, and far less crowded.
Nanhudashan (3,740 meters) and the notoriously
dangerous Chilaishan (3,605 meters)--both in
Taiwan's north-east--require more than a weekend.
If
you've a desire to see the most pristine and
scenic parts of Taiwan, consider tackling the
South Second Section, a trail that links Shiangyangshan
(beside the Southern Cross-Island Highway) with
the hot springs resort of Dongpu in Nantou County.
This route, which takes seven to nine days,
demands stamina and a fair amount of equipment. |
PAPERWORK
AND ENVIRONMENTAL PRESERVATION
A
system of mountain permits regulates access to Taiwan's
high mountains and conservation areas. The rules are
complex and often amended. At Yushan and some other
mountains they are enforced strictly, but elsewhere
checks are sporadic.
See
www.npa.gov.tw/explain/main1.htm for details. The
websites of Yushan National Park (www.ysnp.gov.tw),
Taroko National Park (www.taroko.gov.tw) and Shei-Pa
National Park (www.spnp.gov.tw) are full of practical
information
While
hiking, look after yourself--but remember also
to respect nature. Campfires are prohibted in
many places. Do not leave litter; do not pick
flowers or worry wild animals. Leave Taiwan's
mountains in the state you'd like to find them.
WHEN
AND WHERE
In
southern Taiwan, October to April is the most
pleasant season, and also the best time of year
for expeditions into the southern half of the
Central Mountain Range. |
|
Days
are short--dusk comes before 6 pm--and at high elevations
the nights can be extremely cold. But conditions are
almost always dry and clear. This makes for safer
exploring and better sightseeing, and means hikers
need not worry about crampons, ice axes, and other
impedimenta.
Yushan,
Taiwan's highest peak at 3,952 meters, remains the
island's No. 1 high-mountain hiking destination. Because
of its popularity, permits and youth hostel-style
accommodation at Paiyun Villa have to be arranged
well in advance, especially if you plan to arrive
on a weekend or holiday.
|
Fortunately,
there are many other mountains and routes which
are just as challenging, and far less crowded.
Guanshan
(3,668 meters) and Shiangyangshan (3,603 meters)
stand adjacent to the Southern Cross-Island
Highway. Either peak can be conquered in a weekend,
or used as steppingstones for longer treks. |
If
you've the time, and a desire to see the most pristine
and scenic parts of Taiwan, consider tackling the
South First Section (a trail that heads south from
Guanshan) or the South Second Section (northward from
Shiangyangshan to the hot springs resort of Dongpu
in Nantou County). Both routes demand stamina and
a fair amount of equipment; ropes have been affixed
along the steepest stretches, but technical climbing
skills are not required.
The
South First Section can be done in five days. The
path follows a spectacular watershed for much of its
length, and incorporates a dozen peaks more than 3,000
meters high.
Once
on the ridge there are few escape routes. This,
together with a perennial lack of water that
forces hikers to carry enough liquids for the
duration of the expedition, makes it one of
Taiwan's toughest hikes.
The
clearly-marked trailhead for Guanshan and the
South First Section is less than two kilometers
east of Tianchr, which is served by a daily
bus from Tainan City. |
|
The
South Second Section is an alluring option for hikers
wanting to spend more than a week in the wilderness.
The trail takes hikers past the icy waters of Chiaming
Lake. Roughly the size of a soccer pitch, the lake
is the result of a meteor striking the Earth 4,000
years ago. It is a sublime sight and makes for excellent
camping.
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