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Matches: "A cozy little flame in the dark alley"
By Courtney Donovan Smith
Translated by Naomi Lai
19, Lane 149, MeiCun Rd, Sec 1
(04) 2326-3295
Hours: 8 pm-3 am, sometimes later on Sat and Sun
Credit cards not accepted (but application pending).
No service charge.
Menu: Chinese and English
www.wretch.cc/blog/matches2010
search on Facebook for 'Matches'
When a bar chooses as its motto "a cozy little flame in the dark alley", you know it has character. The name Matches was chosen because, as co-owner Alfie puts it, "In a big city you can feel blue; the flame of a match brings the light of hope and freedom."
Located in a lane across the parkway from the Eslite book store on Gongyi Road, Matches is a little hard to find. But it is truly a find. It is located in an old building and its designer decided that instead of hiding this fact he would play with it. The entrance is through a hole knocked in the wall--the bricks sticking out higgledy-piggledy. A strip of exposed brick has toy soldiers playfully engaged in a little plastic maneuvers. An artist created wall decorations using shards of mirror. The overall effect is fun and is meant "to create little surprises". Expect more to come.
Matches also has the distinction of being an cocktail lover's heaven. They feature 15 to 20 original cocktails--each one with a personal story behind it. One of the bartenders (and co-owner), Dan, won a national award for his cocktail Crazy Tingles (NT$250), made with strawberries and dash of red pepper. The story is that it describes the feeling the bartender had meeting women in a disco. Another cocktail is the Wonderland (NT$250), inspired by Peter Pan. Ingredients include kiwi and children's marbles. Its story is that it reflects Alfie's desire to "keep the child inside alive" and to remind him why he's in the bar business. Also worth trying is the Sweet Sorrow (NT$250), made with an evocative mix of milk-based alcohol, cheese and coffee. Cocktails are NT$150 and up. Beer is only available on tap, with a 500 c.c. glass priced at NT$130. Working alongside Dan is another passionate 'mixologist' and fellow co-owner Camper.
The food menu is small and mostly barbecued. I tried the surprisingly succulent Barbecued Duck Breast (NT$180) and was genuinely impressed. The Barbecued Squid (NT$150) is also highly recommended. The food is all made in-house, except for the seaweed appetizer prepared by a co-owner's mother. It may be the best I've ever had--much more tender than most, and nicely spiced. The clientele is varied in age and profession, leaning toward creative types. A musician, recently the excellent Patrick Byrne, performs live twice a month. |
December 2010 
