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COMPASS MAGAZINE > December 2010
 

Retski's Kitchen

Retski's Kitchen

Retski's Kitchen

From Minsk With Love: Retski's Kitchen

By Douglas Habecker
Translated by Naomi Lai

(04) 2422-4260
169, ChongDe Rd, Sec 3
Fongyuan branch: 57, DaShe St, Fongyuan City; (04) 2515-2581
Hours:11 am-2:30 pm, 5-10 pm (closed Tuesdays)
Credit cards accepted.
10% service charge.

Undoubtedly, many first-time Taiwanese visitors to Retski's Kitchen are moved to exclaim, "So cute!" Indeed, while Taichung is filled with places serving foreign cuisine, there are very few that go as far as this one to completely immerse customers in an exotic foreign setting. In this case it's a large-but-cozy, exquisitely-detailed wooden Belarussian summer house and garden setting, complete with Belarussian/Russian photos and knick-knacks (including the obligatory Russian nested dolls), costumed wait staff and pleasantly-melancholy Russian music.

Belarussian chef Valerie Retski and his Taiwanese wife Angel met as co-workers at the nearby Yamay theme park complex and opened their first Retski's Kitchen in Angel's Fongyuan city hometown about two and a half years ago. Its popularity led them to expand with a larger Taichung city branch, which has won customers with great ambiance and hearty, home-style Belarussian/Russian/Western cuisine and drinks. The latter category includes what may be Taiwan's only Kvass, a gold-colored summer drink made from bread, honey and other ingredients that has been popular in Eastern Europe for over a thousand years, and is starting to find fans among Retski's patrons.

For similarly Slavic entrees, try the Shashlyk BBQ Pork (NT$480 set meal)--two big metal skewers loaded with chunks of meat and veggies--or the Kotleta Meat Balls (NT$450). More general Western fare includes an 18-ounce T-Bone Steak (NT$980), 10-ounce Garlic Flavored Grilled Ribeye (NT$660) and Roast Fishsteak with Dill Cream Sauce (NT$420). These entrees come with Russian bread with cheese/garlic spread, a soup (sometimes Borscht), salad, dessert and drink. Most of these sides change weekly with the more exotic offerings including the Red Beet Salad, whose color intrigues Taiwanese diners, a finger-sized crystal fish with tartar sauce appetizer, and Kissel, a thick fruit soup dessert popular in eastern and northern Europe.

Another Retski's specialty is handmade chocolates, made by Angel's sister and brother-in-law and sold under the name Liza--the owners' oldest daughter. Available individually or for take-out in attractive boxes, this variety of fine dark, milk and white chocolates comes in all shapes and sizes, like adorable little stick-mounted bears, bear prints and hearts (NT$30-40). One other amazing related treat is the Chocolate with Deadoshika's Honey drink (NT$150)--a mug of hot chocolate served with a mini-pitcher of honey and an edible dark-chocolate stirring spoon.

Special Note: This month on Dec. 24 and 25, Retski's Kitchen is offering a what promises to be a very tasty and filling Christmas special set meal. See "What's Cooking" on pg. 20 for details.

Retski's Kitchen Retski's Kitchen

Retski's Kitchen Retski's Kitchen
Left: Kissel
Right: Kotleta Meat Balls and Kvass

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