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HOME > CENTRAL TAIWAN > DINING >

COMPASS MAGAZINE, July 2007

Savoring the fruits of summer at Fleur de Sel

By Douglas Habecker Translated by Ann Lee

(04) 2372-6526
114, WuQuan W 4th St
Hours:12-2 pm, 5-11 pm
(closed Mondays)
Visa/Mastercard/JCB accepted.
10% service charge.

When I last wrote about Fleur de Sel over two years ago, I noted that it represented the "creme de la creme" of dining in Taichung, thanks to exquisite French haute cuisine, impeccable service and fine-dining atmosphere. Although plenty has changed in Taichung since that time, with numerous new restaurants and chefs taking up residence in the city, that original assessment of Fleur de Sel still stands unchanged.
The greatest credit goes to Head Chef Justine Li, followed by her restaurant manager, Mr. Yen, who is the public face of the restaurant for most diners, attentively hovering over tables, explaining dishes to guests and overseeing staff in the best traditions of a French matre d'. Justine's education, skill and experience in the kitchen cannot be overstated, as one of the first Taiwanese chefs to have formally studied culinary arts under the likes of Michelin three-star chef Joel Robuchon and at France's renowned Ecole Le Notre. All this followed an already-successful career that including the opening of Taichung's popular Papa Mio Italian restaurant in 1997.

However, it is Fleur de Sel--located along the Art Museum Parkway--that is her true labor of love. Justine and her partners imported just about everything, at no little expense, from France to create an exquisite dining environment--from the silverware to even the butter and mineral water. More importantly, she spares no effort when it comes to her menu and entrees.

This season, diners can enjoy some of Justine's latest creations, via her all-new "Summer Fruit Menu", which introduces 10 new French creations that fuse fruit with traditional ingredients in various, beautifully-presented, mouth-watering combinations. For lunch or dinner, NT$1,880 sets feature items like the Foie Gras de Canard Cuit au Torchon avec Poire au Vin Blanc, an appetizer that mixes sweet, juicy pear slices with goose liver. Then there's the Le Carpaccio de St Jacques sur Une Frisee a la Vinaigrette de Mangue, presenting local "Ai Wen" mangoes on a bed of lettuce with a yogurt and balsamic vinegar sauce, or the L'Agneau de Lait Roti, Sauce Orange et au Fruit Sec--tender lamb chops with orange slices, presented with balsamic vinegar, a broccoli puree, apricots and raisins.

The wonderful meals end with one of Justine's heavenly desserts and coffee. Naturally, diners can enjoy fine wines and champagne with their food, too. Fine dining certainly isn't an everyday experience for most people, but those looking to savor something extraordinary, Fleur de Sel is a must.

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