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The
pinnacle of dining at Top of ONE
By Douglas Habecker Translated
by Ann Lee
532, YingCai Rd., 46F (Hotel One)
(04) 2303-1234
Hours:6-10:30 pm (Long Bar to 12 midnight)
Credit cards accepted. 10% service charge. Parking lot.
Reservations recommended.
Infrequently--perhaps every several
years or so--this city welcomes a restaurant that creates
a new culinary paradigm shift. Such is the case with
Top of ONE, an exquisite dining establishment that appropriately
towers over Taichung's dining scene literally and figuratively.
As its name hints, this restaurant is located on the
46th floor of the new Hotel One, which is also taking
the local hospitality market to new heights in various
ways. The virtue of providing an airplane-like vista
from the highest seats in the city makes Top of ONE
a natural choice for the romantic rendezvous (with two
successful marriage proposals to date) or high-end business
dinner. Lit in subdued colors, the restaurant completes
the mood with live jazz and a wait staff that passes
for a bevy of professional models.
As the saying goes, however, the proof is in the pudding,
and Canadian Chef Paul Image makes a wonderful pudding,
indeed. Despite his boyish appearance, Image's culinary
expertise spans many years and countries, from Vancouver
to the Four Seasons Tokyo hotel. The Modern French cuisine
he creates is showcased in meticulously created and
prepared set menus, such as the Jewel Menu (NT$2,200/person).
This starts with an Amuse Bouche--which the chef likes
to experiment with--followed by the Ocean Sampler, consisting
of Saffron Oyster "Cannaloni" Hokkaido Scallop
Tartar and Monkfish Liver Torchon. Next comes the Matsutake
Potage soup, Pan Seared Red Snapper, and Spanish Quail.
After a palate-cleansing Sorbet, it's on to a savory
Roasted Rack of Lamb, served with Veal Sweetbreads,
Morel, Black Olive Potato Pave and Caraway Jus. It's
wrapped up with Sweet Plate, coffee or tea and Petit
Fours. Describing the marvelous mix of ingredients,
flavors, textures and presentation of the above would
take pages, and is best experienced first-hand.
"My philosophy is that flavors need to be balanced,
and have harmony...like a marriage. [My food] has a
variety of influences from living in Japan and Vancouver,
which has a heavy Chinese influence with a diversity
ranging from India to France," says Image, who
utilizes the finest ingredients, from Norwegian Balic
salmon and Japanese Kumamoto oysters to local snow pea
leaves.
The fish-shaped 160-seat restaurant is actually divided
into two halves, with one side occupied by the Long
Bar, featuring a la carte selections, including Beluga
and Ocietra caviar, various oysters, and sushi bar items,
from Sashimi to Nigiri Sushi. Diners are welcome to
mix and match from the menus, and the extensive drink
menu has wines--from a NT$1,000 Australian Terrazas
(NT$250/glass) to the NT$5,300 Chateau Talbot '99 Saint-Julien--plus
fine champagnes and a full range of sakes.
"We're trying to do something different for Taichung,"
says the chef. "We provide a whole experience,
so that you can savor fine food and wine, the Long Bar
and beautiful views as Taichung lights up."
Compass Magazine reminds its
readers to refrain from drinking and driving. |
