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COMPASS MAGAZINE, August 2006

Go indigenous at Gulu-Gulu

2, Lane 13, WuQuan West 4th Street
(04) 2378-3128
Hours:10 am-12:30 am
Credit cards accepted.

-- By Cheryl Robbins Translated by Ann Li

Gulu-Gulu Music Restaurant, located near the National Taiwan Museum of Fine Arts, specializes in indigenous cuisine and music. It is the brainchild of Paiwan singer Jang Kn Jang, who, due to the complexity of his indigenous name, usually goes by his Chinese one of Chiu Jin-ming .
Speaking of names, why Gulu-Gulu? Jin-ming says that among Chinese “gulu gulu” means the sound one's stomach makes when it is empty. “Gulu” also sounds like "degulu", which in the Paiwan language means “to drink”.

The indigenous theme becomes evident as soon as the intertwining driftwood sculptures marking the entryway come into view. Inside, a colorful mural above the semi-circular bar catches your eye. Below the bar is a cage-like structure, and large stones that have been decorated by friends. Seating is available on the first and second floors, and exhibitions of indigenous art and handicrafts enhance the unique decor. There are two stages—one inside and one outside. Live music is performed daily from 12:30 to 1:30 p.m. and from 7 to 8 p.m. Artists include Jin-ming, who used to sing in restaurants around Taichung before opening Gulu-Gulu two years ago, as well as Bunun singer Austin. From August 10 to 14, there will be special performances by traveling Japanese indigenous singer, songwriter and musician Rocket Son. Gulu-Gulu also holds a number of activities, such as a recent trip to Jin-ming's village in Taitung's Taimali Township .

Gulu-Gulu's most popular menu choices are Taimali Pig's Knuckle , Grilled Perch and High Mountain trout , as well as Indigenous Style Grilled Meat . These items serve as entrees for set meals, ranging in price from NT$300 to NT$560, which start off with an appetizer of Ah Vai, a traditional Paiwan dish made from millet, sticky rice, pork and peanuts, wrapped inside large leaves. This is highly authentic, made by Jin-ming's mother and shipped in fresh daily from Taitung. It is served with a spicy tofu-based dipping sauce exclusive to Gulu-Gulu and also comes with a glass of millet wine , courtesy of Jin-ming's mother. Salad and soup are provided, and changed seasonally to take advantage of fresh ingredients. To wrap it all up, there is dessert and a choice of juice, coffee or tea.

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