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COMPASS MAGAZINE, February 2006

A traditional spin on vegetables at Mu Yue Tao

(04) 2242-2799
13, AnShun East 6th St. (Corner of ShenYang Rd.)
Hours:11 am-2 pm;5-10 pm
10% service charge. Credit cards not accepted. Dedicated parking area on WenXin Rd.

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-- By Niang Chen Translated by Cara Steenstra

With 10 years of experience behind it, Mu Yue Tao's most beautiful facet is its accumulated history. In contrast to many trendy, themed establishments that come and go with the wind, this simple neighborhood establishment has captured the hearts of many diners from the very start with its focus on country-style vegetable cuisine.

Leafy vegetables that mountain Aborigines used to collect, such as the spiny bitter cucumber, Lablab bean, sword bean, pigeon bean, drumstick bean and others are flown to Taichung, then prepared with traditional Taiwanese methods for authentic country dishes. Apart from the interesting original textures, which change with the seasons and depend on the amount of rainfall, the vegetables tend to taste different when cooked.

In an effort to preserve the authenticity of his cuisine, owner Mr. Shu purposely takes trips to the countryside to purchase ingredients. For his Pickled Radish Chicken and Xian Chao Chicken dishes, he uses 15-year-old black pickled radishes and old Xian Chao grass only, as it is only with time that these flavors can be acquired. The Fermented Vegetables with Goose and the Fermented Vegetables with Meat Soup are prepared using naturally-fermented sour vegetables that are not overwhelming. Those who miss the authentic traditional flavors of Taiwan will definitely love these dishes. Another specialty, the Yellow Fish Smoked in Oolong Tea Sugar does not require any additional sauces and is a simple, delicious dish that will amaze you.

Most a la carte dishes are around NT$180 to NT$380. If you are dining with two or three friends, you can try the NT$399 set menu with three dishes and a soup. Dishes include Bamboo Shoots with Meat, Beans with Oysters, Seasonal Vegetables, and a selected soup. Catering and banquets are available for between NT$2,000 and NT$3,000. Chinese new year dishes are also available over the holiday period.

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