SUN YAT-SEN MANSION 27, Wu Quan (Wu Chuan) West 6th Street (04) 2377-0808 Hours： 11 am-2 pm, 5-9 pm

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      Taichung diners who are looking for something very different, very exclusive and very upscale should consider eating at this restaurant--but only after making reservations. That's the only way you'll get into this exceptional establishment which, until recently, was reserved for a very select clientele that included corporate chairman, doctors, lawyers and foreigners. Located on a quiet lane not far from Wu Quan West Road, this mansion completely resembles a Shanghai-style villa, surrounded by a high wall and landscaped gardens. Walk through the French doors into the foyer and you can either follow the wooden staircase upstairs or go into the living/dining room area below. Tasteful touches include linen-covered tables, classic table lamps and chandeliers, old-style desks and Sun Yat-Sen memorabilia. There is total seating for 45, ranging from two to larger parties (the entire villa may also be rented out for special occasions). There is no menu here, with set multi-course lunches and dinners respectively costing NT$1,200 and NT$1,600. The mix of Chinese/Western/Japanese haute cuisine changes every two weeks and includes items like Abalone and Clam Soup, Fresh Salmon and Cod, Baked Ribs, and Lotus-Paste Balls. As the owners proudly note, all this fulfills this restaurant's slogan: the first line in "The Sayings of Sun Yat-Sen", which reads, : "The first responsibility of a good leader is to ensure his citizens eat well."