Ba Bu 61, Wu Chuan West 1st Street (04) 2372-0777, 2372-0630 Hours: 11:30 am-2:30 pm, 5:30-10 pm

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Enjoying escargot, fondue and other delights at Ba Bu

By Douglas Habecker Translated by Blankie Hsu

       Over the past decade, Taichung has seen a few--and just a few--truly exceptional European restaurants that have provided not only fine dining, but an overall standard of ambiance and service that deserves five stars. Among these, Chef Kuo Ming Jie has been one of the key players, being a driving force behind well-known establishments like Chalet Swiss in Taipei and Taichung and, more recently, Eurochoice.

Although those places have been relegated to history, Kuo recently opened his best-yet showcase for over 20 years of cooking experience. Despite its exotic-sounding name, Ba Bu is a beautiful oasis of fine dining, located along a quiet tree-lined parkway a few blocks from the Taiwan Museum of Art. From the outside, the gray mansion is an inviting sight, surrounded by large courtyard with tables for outdoor dining and a nice fountain and pool.

      It is inside, however, that Ba Bu really shines, with classy ambiance that includes classical music, dark wood floors, attractive tables and chairs, white linen table cloths and napkins, quality silverware and glassware, and other expensive furnishings. The upstairs is just as nice with more tables, plus two private VIP rooms which can be connected if desired for a total of about 22 people. The picture is completed with the uniformed wait staff, who meet high-end hotel standards in every way.

       Ba Bu's menu is similar to that previously used by Eurochoice, with some improvements. The mix of French, German, Swiss and Italian cuisine includes 12 main courses, like the NT$720 Pan-Fried Prawn and Scallop served with mushroom rice; the Sablefish Fillet Meuniere; Fillet Steak Cafe De Paris (NT$880); Knuckle of Veal Aargau Style (NT$1,000); New York Steak (NT$1,300); and the NT$1,100 Fondue Bourguignonne, with four sauces and beef, chicken and lobster. Departing from the European menu, Chef Kuo also now offers shark's fin and abalone meals, from around NT$2,200. Appetizers include European delectables, from snails to goose liver.

Less expensive options can be had a lunchtime, with six main courses--like the NT$360 Braised Chicken Leg with red wine sauce--together with soup or salad, dessert and coffee or tea. There are over 20 fine wines and there is complimentary Canada Icefield Natural Glacier Water for all guests.        To get to the restaurant, take Wu Chuan West Road half a block east after the art museum main entrance and turn onto Wu Chuan West 1st Street at St. James Church. There is plenty of parking available.

      With Ba Bu, Chef Kuo ably continues a tradition of providing some of Taichung's best fine dining and a perfect place for anything from business lunches to a romantic dinner.