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MAGAZINE, March 2002
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Kreutzer
168, Hua Mei W. Street, section 1
Tel: (04) 2314-5384
Hours: 12 noon-2 pm, 5:30-9:30 pm (closed Mondays)
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Kreutzer
Serves Up Seafood Delights and Fine Wines
By Victoria Augustine Translated by
Sharon Yang
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While
Taichung may not be the first city that pops into your head
when you¡¦re in the mood for seafood, you may
change your mind after a meal at the Kreutzer Restaurant.
With the seafood delights that owner Chang Yi-ming has to
offer customers, you might just find yourself humming that
little ditty, ¡§Under the sea, under the sea, darling
it's better, down where it's wetter. Take it from me.¡¨
Walking into Kreutzer, you will notice deep
sea-blue walls and seaside memorabilia mixed with French decor.
The European accents don¡¦t stop there. Owner
Chang speaks French and, as a wine connoisseur, is a great
resource for customers interested in trying a glass of French
wine with their meal.
The menu features everything from king crab
to spaghetti, with prices ranging from moderate to high. For
seafood fans, Chang suggests either the crab or lobster. Crab
meat tends to be on the softer, more tender side, while lobster
has more consistency.
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Both are priced according to weight, with crab costing
NT$60/liang (a Chinese measure equivalent to about 1.3 ounces),
and lobster NT$75/liang. Chang gets seafood imported fresh from
Canada every week. Since he imports live seafood (instead of the
frozen alternative), he prefers to either steam or bake it in order
to retain the original flavors. This results in a fresh and juicy
entree. Some items¡Vsuch as oysters--are even available raw
(not ¡¥live¡¦ as the English menu would have
us believe) for the true seafood lover.
Fixed-price items are also plentiful. From Italian-style
pasta dishes, such as seafood linguine with basil and tomato sauce
or spaghetti alla carbonara, to Thai specialties, such as fried
beef with red curry sauce or steamed fish with lemon sauce, Kreutzer
has something for everyone. Every main course comes with salad,
soup, garlic bread, a drink and dessert. Dinners range in price
from NT$320 to NT$500. Thai specialties (which should be ordered
in advance) are from NT$220 to NT$400.
Kreutzer also has set business lunches that are
quite a bargain, running from NT$180 to NT$380. Since the menu is
in English and Chinese, both locals and foreigners will find it
easy to understand. Chang claims that, although the menu is not
in Japanese, a loyal group of Japanese customers has also been coming
to Kreutzer for fresh seafood for many years and through the restaurant's
many location changes.
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As for drink choices, standard juices, coffees
and teas are available. The true delights, however, come from
Chang¡¦s large wine selection. While everyone
has his/her own taste preferences, white wine is a must if
you are eating seafood. The house wine is Genestet Bordeauz,
a delicate and fruity French wine made from grape blends.
There are also non-European wine choices, such as a Canadian
ice wine, which is a bit on the sweet side and would go perfectly
with desserts. It¡¦s almost guaranteed that you¡¦ll
find something that suits you from the fine wine list at Kreutzer.
If not, have no fear, as there¡¦s also Taiwan
beer!
When it comes to choosing between surf and
turf, it seems surf is the way to go with Kreutzer. Unfortunately,
as the crustaceans sang in The Little Mermaid, ¡§We¡¦re
what the land folks love to cook. Though under the sea, we¡¦re
off the hook.¡¨ They are safe for a while, since
Chang keeps all seafood alive in large glass aquariums. Seafood
that fresh won¡¦t be able to swim around forever,
though.
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Lunch is served daily from 12 noon to 2 pm, and
dinner from 5:30 to 9:30 pm. Kreutzer is closed Mondays. Reservations
are preferred so that the cooks can prepare all necessary materials
ahead of time. Seating on the first floor can accommodate approximately
25 people, while the second floor (doubling as a meeting room) can
seat another 12 to 16. Holiday specials and other promotion information
are available at the restaurant as well as in the United Daily News.
(Lien He Bao).
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