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A Taste of Old Taiwan at Shu De Mountain Farm By Victoria Augustine

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Remember the images you had of traditional Taiwan before you actually arrived here? Farmers in straw hats toiling in the fields from dawn to dusk; miles upon miles of rice paddies with long green grasses waving in the wind; barefooted children running through the alleys, laughing and playing; women squatting beside the river hand-washing the family's clothes; streets lined with red lanterns....

It's tough to find any trace of those images once you actually arrive and realize that Taiwan has transformed from a down-to-earth agricultural community to a technologically-advanced, silicon-savvy, highly-competitive, economic heavyweight in today's global world. But, alas, traditions remain and those images can still be seen, albeit in hard-to-reach corners that require assistance to locate.

Tucked away just south of the city, down a small farm path and smack dab in the middle of a rice field, is the Shu De Mountain Farm. This 96-year-old classic U-shaped farmhouse is all you imagined and more: brightly-lit lanterns hanging from the red brick entryway, traditional Chinese music, black-and-white photos of long-gone days, carp ponds and--most important of all--the most authentic Taiwanese cuisine your heart could possibly desire.

Owner Ho Jei-pin, is proud of the way business has gone these past seven years that Shu De has been in operation. He says that Taiwanese patrons, as well as foreigners from hundreds of different countries, have come by to experience the Taiwan that we all expect to see. In order to keep these patrons happy, he insists that traditional dishes be prepared as close to the real thing as possible and he alters flavors to match current tastes only when absolutely necessary.

Whatever he's doing seems to be working well. On an average night, you can see perfectly content customers enjoying a number of delicious dishes, drinks and the fresh night air that can only be found here at Shu De. Whether you choose a seat outside in the courtyard area, or inside the farmhouse, there is the unique feeling that you have gone back in time and are the special guest of an elite farming family that has invited you to join them for dinner--like nothing you've experienced in Taichung city.

The menu is only available in Chinese but the workers are more than willing to help out with simple English translations if necessary. The menu is divided into six sections: Soups, Three-Cup Meals from NT$250 to NT$380, Mountain/River Specialties from $250 to NT$500, Home-Cooked Dishes from NT$150 to NT$450, Vegetables from NT$100 to NT$300 and Side Dishes from NT$60 to NT$70.

Although each dish is equally delicious, I would definitely recommend the Three-Cup Chicken (San Bei Ji), Stir-Fried Clams (Hsien Chiau La Ah), Deep-Fried Japanese Fragrant Vegetables (Yei Sheng Erben Hsiang Tsai) and Pork Oil Rice (Ju You Fan). If you are a little on the adventurous side (which I'm not), go ahead and try one of Shu De's special dishes: Three-Cup Mouse (San Bei Di Lung, which literally translates to "ground dragon") or Bee Larva (Feng Yong) rumored to be excellent for the skin.

There are plenty of drink options available in case a stinger gets lodged in your throat. Choose from hot and cold teas, juices, soft drinks, and various types of alcohol.

With seating for more than 350 people, as well as private party rooms, ample parking, friendly wait-staff, great food and drinks, and its one-of-its-kind atmosphere, you have no excuse for not heading down to the very distinctive Shu De for a very Taiwanese experience.

Getting There: Take Wenhsin South Road all the way south of the city. Turn right onto Wenhsin South 7th Road. Then turn left onto Fong Leh Alley you'll see a big green sign for the restaurant--in Chinese--on the corner. Follow the alley until you come to a fork in the road. Take the right fork and Shu De Mountain Farm is at the end of the road. You can't miss it.