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COMPASS MAGAZINE, April 1999. VOL. 6 ISSUE 4

Taichung's Canadian Cooking
By Douglas Habecker

It's almost nine o'clock in the evening and Chris Johnson is staring at the salad and appetizers buffet with a slight frown. "Just a moment, please. We need more of this one," he says, gesturing at a particular plate, and disappears into a nearby door. Seconds later, he reappears, satisfied that everything is in order.

Such moments aptly illustrate the commitment to quality of The Landis Taichung Hotel's new executive chef. Since he started working on January 27, the 32-year-old Canadian has kept himself very busy, revising menus, overseeing food festivals, catering, getting to know his staff and running the day-to-day operations. On top of all that, he has been adjusting to his first overseas living experience, settling into a new apartment with his wife and daughter and attempting to learn a little about the country around him.

"I would say that, on the average, it's going very well. The staff has made it very comfortable and have helped me learn the language," says Johnson, who usually works from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m., six days a week, overseeing a kitchen staff of 19 which prepares food for La Mode restaurant, Le Bar, hotel banquets, outside catering and room service.

It's all a long way from home, back in Vancouver where he previously worked at the excellent Raincity Grill Restaurant. Last June, the president of The Landis Taichung Hotel ate at the restaurant with his family and was so impressed that he offered Johnson a job in Taichung. With the support and enthusiasm of his wife Marnie and seven-year-old daughter Chelsea, he decided to jump at the unique opportunity. With an initial, two-year contract, he has wasted no time in getting to work, introducing a new a la carte menu at La Mode and is continuing to revamp the fine restaurant's food selection.

Most recently, the restaurant held a grill promotion, to be followed in mid-to-late April by a Canadian food festival, complete with fresh lobster, Montreal veal, Canadian beef and other specialties. When that is over, Johnson will be teaming up with restaurant sous chef Chris Liu and the hotel pastry chef to enter the Hong Kong International Cooking Competition in early May.

Johnson, who describes his own cooking style as an "Asian-Pacific/Pacific Northwest fusion", says that so far his biggest challenges have been the language barriers and the increased difficulties when ordering kitchen supplies. On the other hand, he says his biggest enjoyment has been the local people and the hospitality they've shown.
He and his family have just settled into an apartment, within walking distance of the hotel, and his wife is doing volunteer work at Lincoln American School, where Chelsea is attending school. They have enjoyed exploring the streets of the city and have already ventured out to Sun Moon Lake for a day trip. However, he hasn't yet had the opportunity to indulge his enjoyment of softball, golf and other sports.

Johnson says that his most formative experiences were gained during his three years at Vancouver's Four Seasons Hotel, where he won the British Columbia Apprentice of the Year award. He believes that one of the biggest challenges facing someone in his current position is keeping a consistent, even quality standard for food, especially given the sheer quantity of dining fare produced by his kitchen.

"Two years goes by so fast," he remarks. "If everything goes according to plan, I'd like to be here longer. I spent my first 32 years in Canada and now I'm happy to be here."

CHRIS JOHNSON'S
TOP FIVE FAVORITE FOODS


1. Pork knuckles and beans
2. Reuben sandwich
3. Poached chicken
and vegetables
4. Anything grilled
or Barbecued
5. Pasta, especially baked penne
Favorite Chinese Dish:
Taiwanese-style salty pork, baked with raw leeks and vinegar/
garlic sauce
Favorite Dessert: Souffle
Favorite Drink: Martini

 

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